Followed us home

My brother and I purchased a pair of Cub Cadets from a friends father. A 1720 and a 1450. Both currently are not running but were when they were put in the shed many many years ago evidently the 1720's hydro had something wrong with it and the 1450's front PTO clutch went out but it did get an engine rebuild. Anyways we went over and loaded them up on the trailer and 300 bucks later had them home. The 1450's tires all hold air however the 1720 has 3 tubeless flats.

The SN pictures are from the 1450. School me on the 1450 guys. We are wanting to get it running, add ag-bar rear tires and a sleeve hitch and put the Brinly plow on it. There is only one valve on this model (I'm not sure if more were optional.) Can you add a outlet to the 1450?

On the 1720 what are the common causes for hydro problems? Where do I check for the hydro oil level?

Finally, his father mentioned that before those two cubs he had another gear drive that had a rear PTO which he used to power small augers and elevators. I was under the impression that all cub PTOs ran the wrong direction for most PTO applications. Anyone know the scoop on that?

Thank you for all the help.

CUBS are the wrong way around I have heard. The Cadets I don't know cause they are hooked to a Kohler engine. One of the guys in the know will need to reply. With a mower deck on a CUB you need to flip the power belt. If you have a PTO for a cadet that is a pretty neat toy to have.

Is it possible the CC PTO is the proper direction because of the additional reduction gear on the front of the transmission of gear drive models? As for a hydro, I don't know, but would assume the transmission turns the same way, just driven differently.

The hydros never could get a PTO that I know of. I believe the components couldn't handle that much load?

connor9988:

The 1450 is a Garden Tractor while the 1720 is a Lawn Tractor.

The 1450 is the tractor is focus in on for ground engaging attachments.

There is only one valve on this model (I'm not sure if more were optional.) Can you add a outlet to the 1450?

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It was standard equipment that the 1450 came with a single Hydraulic Circuit. As an option (rare one) a dual Hydraulic Circuit was available with front outlets.

I was under the impression that all cub PTOs ran the wrong direction

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That is correct. For some strange reason they have a "cool" factor, command a lot of desire, and are sold for big dollars, but are functionally worthless. NO implements were ever made by IH for them, and a "reverser" attachment is needed for traditional PTO power implements.

I also have a 1450 and is one of my favorite models. The biggest issue with IH's "Quietline" series tractors, is the rubber engine mounts. A lot of owners don't understand them and curse everything about them. Some go as far as convert these mounts to a "solid" mount.

The 145o is a solid tractor, solid Kohler engine, solid Sundstrand Hydro unit, and their traditional and rugged IH Cast Iron rearend.

Had to laugh at the first picture, it's just like my barn. Everything else sitting there, ready to go, Cub has the hood up getting worked on .....

Thank you for the information R Bedall. I'm not sure if we plan on restoring it yet or just leave it in its work clothes. It does need a new seat though.

The secret fbh44 it that the VAC has the starter out getting worked on. However, I think I could get it started with the crank given a few minutes and some sweet talk.

The 1720 is a great little lawn tractor from the early 90's. But now 25 years later there are a boatload of them showing up on CL with blown hydro pumps. These models have pumps that wear out and if they work at all, the common symptoms are that they'll drive ok for a few minutes until they warm up then you loose forward/reverse or both.

The 1320/1330, 1420/1430, and 1720/1730 all have the same hydro pump. They tend to loose pressure internally because of worn seals or fittings and aren't bullet proof like the old Sundstrand pumps used in your IH 1450. Problems were a combination of poor design and/or not enough hydro fluid, and the fluid gets dirty because the cheap plastic filler assembly tended to warp and allow stuff to get into the reservoir or the fluid level just evaporates to nothing. They have no filter or drain plug! These are lawn tractors and were the first MTD 'made to die' era models, where MTD began to cut corners to lower quality and increase profit. But overall they were decent and alot of people liked them.

It's possible to try and install a seal kit in the hydro. Pull the pump, clean it out and rebuild it. There is a $35 kit available and includes the seals/rings, etc. My wife loved her 1730 and wanted to keep it, so I did the overhaul. But it did not help and I'm not sure if the kit was even the correct P/N. I have not heard of alot of success doing it. You could try to simply flush the old fluid and refill -- it may help. There also tends to be cracking around the frame parts that hold the hydro/trans assembly.

Thanks for the input Married2Allis. It will save me time from trying to figure out whether it is worth saving or not.

That 1450 looks like a nice original. I restored one 25 years ago and liked it alot. Like was said, the single cylinder Kohlers just shook the rubber motor mounts to pieces. And the pot metal muffler bracket tended to crack as a result. Otherwise solid tractor. You might run into a bad spindle on the mower deck. If one is noisy, it may not last long. They are not cheap at about $235 but I think they can be rebuilt. I believe that the spindle assemblies are discontinued now. Found a NOS one for my 782 this summer.

Got the mower deck off. Was pretty easy. Now to get some ag-bar rear tires and some 3 rib fronts and find a sleeve hitch for the back and snow blade for the front!