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Onan p220 motor starts, five minutes later stalls

B

BC Brian

New User
Seems to be a regular problem with many potential causes. Could it be overheated or oil-related? Could it be ignition control part? Is solid state igntion so no points. Case Ingersoll tractor, 1995 vintage. Ran fine when I got it in 2006, problem came up last winter. Need it fixed to use snow blower attachment. :?:
 
Never had it happen to my Onans but I had a Kohler that would start good and run 2 to 3 minutes and die, was the rubber tipped float needle sticking.
 
Could be running the bowl dry? Then have to wait overnite for the tip to come loose? Sounds like a possibility. I'll try carb. Thanks for tip.
 
(quoted from post at 12:23:10 07/24/16)
Just remembered, and re-confirmed, after engine dies it has No Spark!? Then after several hours it will start right up, run for five minutes, and die. And then, No Spark! Has to be heat-related. Sound like the coil? Hate to spend lots of $$ with no fix.
Click to expand...
 
If no spark when it dies, then its probably not fuel related.

You are checking for spark with the other plug wire connected, aren't you? If you disconnect both of them you will probably never see a spark.

First, check your spark plug wires: It ran me in circles once because one wire was burned off 3/8" or so inside the boot where it went on the Onan coil.

If you have a test light or ohm meter, the next time it dies, check for voltage at the small post on the coil. (Between there and battery neg.- post.) With ignition switch ON. (If you look close, they are two different sizes.) If no voltage, then your problem is in the wiring on the machine.

If you have voltage, it should be very close to battery voltage, then put a test light on the large post on the coil-between there and battery -. Spin the engine over. Your light should blink. If it does not blink, either stay on or stay off, your trigger module is bad. Its under the flywheel. If your light blinks, you probably have a failing coil. You can also check this with a volt meter, but DON'T use the starter. Just roll the engine over by hand slowly. At one point the voltage should drop from about 12v. to less than 2v. If it does not drop, then its the trigger that is the problem. Or the magnet on the crankshaft. I usually change both.

Be sure to use all safety precautions when doing this.

Be sure you have the condenser hooked up to the large post on the coil. It works just like the condenser in a points ignition system and will make your trigger last longer.
 
(quoted from post at 19:09:08 07/25/16) If no spark when it dies, then its probably not fuel related.

You are checking for spark with the other plug wire connected, aren't you? If you disconnect both of them you will probably never see a spark.

First, check your spark plug wires: It ran me in circles once because one wire was burned off 3/8" or so inside the boot where it went on the Onan coil.

If you have a test light or ohm meter, the next time it dies, check for voltage at the small post on the coil. (Between there and battery neg.- post.) With ignition switch ON. (If you look close, they are two different sizes.) If no voltage, then your problem is in the wiring on the machine.

If you have voltage, it should be very close to battery voltage, then put a test light on the large post on the coil-between there and battery -. Spin the engine over. Your light should blink. If it does not blink, either stay on or stay off, your trigger module is bad. Its under the flywheel. If your light blinks, you probably have a failing coil. You can also check this with a volt meter, but DON'T use the starter. Just roll the engine over by hand slowly. At one point the voltage should drop from about 12v. to less than 2v. If it does not drop, then its the trigger that is the problem. Or the magnet on the crankshaft. I usually change both.

Be sure to use all safety precautions when doing this.

Be sure you have the condenser hooked up to the large post on the coil. It works just like the condenser in a points ignition system and will make your trigger last longer.
Click to expand...
 
Yep, battery neg to large (neg) post on coil checks full voltage value (actually small +post also checks full voltage), Norma?
Checked plug wires for continuity, ok.
Checked large post to battery negative with test light, light stays solidly on. I also have a model 4018 which I already had when I moved here five years ago and got the 4020 as part of buying my house. The 4018 was cratering on me, really bad tires, ignition switch ruined, carb needing overhaul, etc., so I just parked it. Anyhow, I just downloaded a 67 page parts list from a site called caseingersoll.com, and it confims that most of electrical parts are common to both tractors. I ordered a new ignition switch Sun and I will perform same test on the 4018 for coil and trigger, to confirm if light blinks as you describe. Looks like 4 motor mounts and 4 bolts in plate holding shaft into hyd pump, and possibly some wire harness disconnects to pull motor. Sound correct? Thanks for info. Any tips for parts purhase? If I succeed with the 4020 I plan to resurrect the 4018 as well. I have a snowblower (which I desperately need here in northern Mich), a lawn deck and a front blade, each of which fit either tractor. Thanks again.
 
If it has an electronic cut off in the carb thats the first place I'd look.After you start the motor the coil that holds the plunger out will get hot and quit working and shut your
gas supply off.
 
(quoted from post at 08:10:00 07/26/16)
(quoted from post at 19:09:08 07/25/16) If no spark when it dies, then its probably not fuel related.

You are checking for spark with the other plug wire connected, aren't you? If you disconnect both of them you will probably never see a spark.

First, check your spark plug wires: It ran me in circles once because one wire was burned off 3/8" or so inside the boot where it went on the Onan coil.

If you have a test light or ohm meter, the next time it dies, check for voltage at the small post on the coil. (Between there and battery neg.- post.) With ignition switch ON. (If you look close, they are two different sizes.) If no voltage, then your problem is in the wiring on the machine.

If you have voltage, it should be very close to battery voltage, then put a test light on the large post on the coil-between there and battery -. Spin the engine over. Your light should blink. If it does not blink, either stay on or stay off, your trigger module is bad. Its under the flywheel. If your light blinks, you probably have a failing coil. You can also check this with a volt meter, but DON'T use the starter. Just roll the engine over by hand slowly. At one point the voltage should drop from about 12v. to less than 2v. If it does not drop, then its the trigger that is the problem. Or the magnet on the crankshaft. I usually change both.

Be sure to use all safety precautions when doing this.

Be sure you have the condenser hooked up to the large post on the coil. It works just like the condenser in a points ignition system and will make your trigger last longer.
Click to expand...
/quote]
Click to expand...
 
I have confirmed via your test process that it is the trigger module. Also, yesterday I found my in-line spark tester and tried it. Sparked!! So I tried the LG post to neg bath post test lite and it flickered as described. So I engaged starter switch, and with a little choke it started right up.
Five minutes later, died. No Spark, and failed coil post test lite process.
So why does that trigger fail? I presume the heat causes it, but why? Thanks if you can help me to understand. Now I will have to get to that module, confirm again it is bad, and order a new one along with the magnet as you suggest.
 
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