hydrostatic drive and ground engaging tools

I am presently gardening with an older MTD garden tractor (800 series) using several implements on a sleeve hitch, this tractor has a hi/lo- 7 speed variable belt drive transmissiom. I have a Cub Cadet 1054 that the sleeve hitch will swap to with no problem. I just wonder how the hydro will do compared to the older tractor plowing and cultivating. Garden is about 3000 sq ft. Basically wonder if it will hold up. It's a whole lot more fun using the tractor than chasing a tiller. thanks kj

Your CC1054 is a LAWN TRACTOR... not a GARDEN TRACTOR. Therefore, there is a huge difference in the strength of the components used to build it. The 1000 Series from Cub Cadet was their cheapest and lowest line, meant for the Big Box Store market. IMO.... the hydro will die an early death if you go down the road you outlined. There is nothing wrong with hydrostatic drives...IF... they are designed and built for the garden tractor market. It all comes down to quality and unfortunately, the hydro in your 1054 does not have any quality.

Thanks Tom which of the CC's are garden tractors not familar with them just picked this one up at an estate sale recently, preferably an older model.

If you look at older Cubs, or any other brand, as long as its a gear box you dont need a big tractor, most any old 10/12hp tractor from the 70s can do regular garden work. I use a 1974 Ford LGT100 and a 1972 JD110, both can pull a single plow or a cultivator, both have tillers. Ford has a snowblower, JD has a 54" snowplow. No problems. BUT... as Tom mentioned, if you want a hydro tractor you have to go big, even if its an older machine you still need more HP just to drive the hydro, and newer machines dont stand up so well, they get hot, real hot, and then they die.

thanks Lanse I'll just stick with the old machine, it never wants for power and seldom is traction an issue if the weights are on though I usually take them off except for plowing and discing to avoid compaction, never run the culivator very deep.

I dont consider the MTD 800 series to be an "Old Machine", garden tractors IMO were in they're hay day in the 70s, for several years I used a 1975 MTD 960, 16hp vert B+S single with a Peerless 2315 rear diff, weighs about 1000 lbs without attachments, thing was a tank until the motor gave out, someday I'd like to repower it with an engine that has a pressurized oil system.

With a 3000sq ft garden you would quickly appreciate an older machine with a few extra pounds on it, and the 12" rims that allow using ATV tires which I use year round and never take the wheel weights off. The mower decks from the 70s tractors dont cut grass worth a crap IMO but they do pull like a tractor should

have 23-10.50x 12 tractor lug tires on it now works really good, have a set of chains for it also but haven't used them since taking the turf tires off

Use the link bellow. Select Cub Cadet from the list on the right side. All the models are shown. If you see a CC tractor for sale, then look it up. The listings tell you if it is a Lawn or a Garden tractor along with lots of other important information.
Tractor Data

I have AG tires on my old Bolens Ride-a-Matic but more for show than anything. I prefer using ATV tires with about 8 lbs of air in them, The softer rubber lugs dont chew up the turf, they ride alot nicer, great traction without chains. I buy them cheap off kijiji whenever I see some half decent used ones, folks often like to upgrade the tires on their quads so there's usually plenty to pick from sometimes for as little as $20 per tire.

As an example of the data that Tom is referring to, compare the transmission fluid capacity of the 1054 to that of the 1650 - 2 quarts vs. 7 quarts. (This is assuming the data presented is correct, of course, and that it is "apples-to-apples".) The 1650 was an older model garden tractor and was very heavy duty. With that hydro-drive tractor you could run ground engaging attachments all day long without undue wear and tear on the machine. With only 2 quarts of oil in your 1054 things would get hot in a hurry. The bushings and bearings in the transmission and final drive would also be much lighter in your 1054 and would wear quickly under this kind of usage.

Another clue as to the intended application of a particular model is if a factory-approved sleeve hitch (or, even better, a Cat 0 3-point for the larger models) was ever offered for it. If it wasn't it is a pretty sure sign that the tractor wasn't built for heavy draft loads. And, I would only consider a sleeve hitch as truly factory-approved if it is built-in with an internal lift system, not a cheap add-on kit with an external lift lever that wraps around the tire like you see offered for some box store "garden tractors".