Case 222 K301A point gaps

550Doug

Member
Location
Southern Ontario
My Kohler K301A in the Case 222 (S/N: 9736484) runs okay but I've noticed that the battery seems to be overcharging as battery acid is seeping out of the top caps. The manual says the ignition points should be set at .020 but mine measure at .006, the spark gap is to be .035 but mine is .025, and the gap in my regulator is .015 but the manual does not mention what the regulator gap should be. Before I reset my gaps to specs I'd like to know the correct regulator gap. Does anyone know?

Thanks
 

Yes it is a Delco Remy voltage regulator #1118988 with 4 spade connectors. The three spades on the front are labelled L,B and F and the rear spade is labelled GEN.
The diagrams in your file are not identical to mine.
Here is the wiring diagram for this setup with the starter/generator charging system:

 
If that was my tractor, i would concern myself with the true condition of the battery. You need TWO tools to check the battery out. The first tool is called a LOAD TESTER. It allows you to connect two
cables to the battery posts and then rotate a dial that causes the battery to be put under a heavy load. Read the instruction manual carefully to make sure you are performing the test correctly. The
meter on the Load Tester will tell you if the battery is healthy or not.

The 2nd tool is called a HYDROMETER. This device has a squeeze bulb and a small diameter hose. You remove all six battery caps and then insert the hose into each cell until it touches the tops of
the plates. You then squeeze the bulb and release it slowly so that the electrolyte is sucked into the Hydrometer to the REQUIRED level. If you do it correctly, the specific gravity of each cell will be
displayed. Write those readings down so you can compare them.

The issue here is this. Does your battery have one or more dead or weak cells? If so, then the regulator is constantly looking at a battery that cannot reach full charge. Therefore, the regulator does
not cut off or taper off the charging voltage. So the regulator keeps trying to recharge the battery and the fully charged cells suffer from the overcharging you see. Batteries in perfect working order
have specific gravity readings that are almost identical. When in use, all cells will lose the same amount of charge and even a half-charged battery will still have readings that are close to identical. It is
those balanced readings that allow the charging system to function properly.

So prior to condemning the regulator, it is essential to make sure that the battery is in proper working order.

As for the spark plug and point gap settings, you already know what those are supposed to be. Make the changes using a proper plug and point gap gauges.
 

Thanks Tom for the guidance.
I did the load test and the battery tests as GOOD.
I also did the hydrometer and the readings are:
1250, 1250, 1275, 1300, 1275, and 1250 from neg post to pos post. The 1250 readings are borderline between Fair and Good on the hydrometer.
I do have another battery that I can test and use.
 

"the ignition points should be set at .020 but mine measure at .006," are you sure about the point setting?? I can't believe that the engine would run at that setting and if so the timing is retarded, the spark plug needs to be at 0.035".

GB in MN
 
The wiring diagram above is my setup.
I have put in a better battery and when running I am getting 15.7 volts at the B terminal of the VR. I think this is still too high.
Shall I try reducing the gap in the VR?
 
No one knows more about these regulators than Delco-Remy, the people who made them. Click on the link below. Keep in mind that this is a universal bulletin that covers 6, 12 and 24 volt charging
systems and therefore the emphasis is not on voltage but rather on amperage readings. Take your time. Identify the regulator YOU have so you can relate to the wording in the bulletin.

BTW.... does your tractor have an ammeter or a charging light? If it has an ammeter, then what does that ammeter tell you? Does it show the needle on the PLUS side of the mid-point of the scale?
Ammeters are there to tell you if the battery is being charged or discharged. When the current draw from lighting and other accessories, exceed the output of the generator, then the needle will go to
the negative side of the scale. Once you remove the heavy current draw, then the needle should swing back into the plus side of the scale. As the battery reaches full charge, the needle will settle at
the mid-point with a tiny bias toward the plus side.
bulletin
 
The only time my ammeter goes neg is on cranking, but once started it goes to about 10 amps. The longer it runs the ammeter decreases and stays fairly stable at about 5 amps. It never really get down much under 5 amps.
I will check out the bulletin.
Thanks for all the input.
By the way, I still haven't adjusted the point gap nor the plug gap because it does run so well. Maybe the timing is advanced but right now i don't care. I'd just like to solve this overcharging first.
 

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