Case 155 Value ?

Mike Beeker · Feb 14, 2016

Talking to a fellow about a Case 155 he has for sale, currently doesn't run, but says it has 70 psi for compression when jumped. Starter turns over, battery bad, not sure of quality of transmission. Comes with mower deck ( 38" looks like ),and blade too. Wondering fair price to offer in current state.

Thanks, Mike

Tom Arnold · Feb 15, 2016

If you are looking for a project tractor to do a ground-up restoration and then take it to shows and parades, then the basic 155 CASE will fill that bill. The deck and blade are not needed and should not be figured into the price.

If you are looking for a tractor to use around your home, then forget this one and look for a CASE made after 1970.

What you described here is a parts tractor. It does not run. You have no way of testing out the tractor and it is NOT your job to get it running. If all the sheet metal is straight, not badly rusted, no missing parts etcetera, then I would offer him $150.00 for it. If he thinks that is too low, then tell him to get off his lazy butt and get the tractor in running order. Never believe a single thing a Seller tells you. Make them prove every statement.

dhermesc · Feb 16, 2016

I'd say you are being very generous at $150. I wouldn't give more than $100 for any garden tractor more than 20 years old that wouldn't run.

ztrmower · Feb 17, 2016

50 to 75.00 tops and that what be only if you need the parts. you can buy a lot of nice running units for couple hundred why would you give that for a dead horse

Tom Arnold · Feb 17, 2016

Your valuation might be bang on for many brands but not for a CASE.... most of the time. Joe's Outdoor Power routinely pays 200 hundred and more for CASE GT's depending upon condition, year and optional equipment. Joe makes money in spite of paying those prices and has a very successful business. Of course, if you look long and hard enough, smoking deals do appear. The price I gave was fair market value for a tractor that is complete, not running and is exposed to the public in a decently written ad with good photos included. Local demand will also affect the prices paid along with how difficult it is to find something similar. Rarely do you find a decent running CASE GT for less than $300.00. If you do, then the Seller has not done his research and is giving it away for cheap money.

Dave Beiter · Feb 17, 2016

I saw pictures of that 155 and he is out of line at $600.. it is decent enough condition and it does have the rare hydraulic lift. I would not go much higher than $400 for it, as the blade is not as desirable as blades for the later snap fast models. I am wondering how he got that number for the compression.. typically you cannot spin that K241 fast enough to get past the compression release with a jump pack.

Tom Arnold · Feb 17, 2016

The optional E30 implement lift kit makes a difference in the valuation. Dave has one up on me because he has seen the listing and photos.

As for compression testing. Remove both wires from the start/gen and bring a set of jumper cables from a good battery to the tractor. Connect the negative jumper cable to the Armature post on the starter/gen. Then touch the positive jumper lead to the frame of the start/gen. That will make the engine spin backward, defeating the ACR and allowing you to get a true compression reading.

Mike Beeker · Feb 18, 2016

Hi Dave, thanks for looking at the add, I am thinking of buying it to put beside that 220 I just got, by the way the 220 runs smooth, and mows "dead" grass fine. LOL! What would you offer without the old style blade, I have a blade already of that style.? I would rather have a snowblower than a blade myself for it.

Thanks Mike

Dave Beiter · Feb 18, 2016

Mike, I would say you would be ok at $300- $350 for it without the blade. That will leave you a little in case the Kohler is shot. I seriously doubt that there would be any tranny trouble, as it looks like it has been taken care of. Question, did that guy just buy it at an auction?? as it looks like it still has an auction tag on the steering wheel. Good luck and let us know if you get it

Tom Arnold · Feb 18, 2016

Mike,
Finding a COMPLETE snow caster for one of those old, obsolete 155 models is very difficult. Mounting a snow caster is a royal PITA. First of all, you need to find a HOLLOW pivot pin for the front axle because the stock pin is solid shaft. Then, you need the PTO countershaft kit. This shaft mounts below the engine PTO and the shaft runs through the hollow axle pin. The countershaft is belt driven by the engine PTO clutch. The correct E Series snow caster has a gearbox mounted to it and a shaft runs from that gearbox to the hex shaped end of the countershaft in order to provide rotary power to the snow caster.

Keep all of that in mind should you decide to start searching for a used snow caster. Almost every part for the old snow casters a NLA (no longer available) from the dealers, Eastman or CPD. That is one of the reasons why I tell people to not buy these older 100 Series GT's as a work tractor. Even the original PTO clutch is a problem to repair if it stops working. Others are free to disagree but IMO all of them are only fit for show and parade duty.

ztrmower · Feb 18, 2016

maybe so its still just what you happen to be able to get regardless. same case unit md 155 as of last week seen setting in a persons yard .$100.00 or best offer.john deere units are the worst to get resold in my area.

Tom Arnold · Feb 18, 2016

ZTR.... I do not disagree. I missed out on a 444 CASE that had been pushed to the curb with a FREE sign on it. My pricing is based on what is posted on sites such as e-Bay, Craigslist, Kijiji, Uncle Henry's and so forth. What you are referring to is a "one off" situation by some homeowner who is not advertising on any of those sites and has not done any research that would tell him that he MAY be selling his tractor too cheap. However, as noted before.. it all comes down to demand for old CASE GT's in his area. No matter what you have, it is only worth whatever someone will pay for it.

daisyman · Feb 18, 2016

Great idea. Never thought of that one. It's a great day...I learned something new!
Irv

Dave Beiter · Feb 18, 2016

Tom, Hate to disagree with ya...you are thinking of the older 150/190 style casters. I have a caster for both my 155 as well as my 195 and use them both (not this year though.. not enough snow) and they use the PTO drive that mounts below the frame,not through the pivot pin, the hex shaft for the caster then inserts into the drive that is mounted below the frame. You are right about some of the parts being NLA, (gear box etc) but the main body of the caster is the same as the newer snap fast models.. I do not user either of these casters hard, but they do get used.. just like the tiller on the rear of my 155 gets used.

Dave Beiter · Feb 18, 2016

The Beiter Snow removal team....

Dave Beiter · Feb 18, 2016

Ok, here we go... learning curve!!

Tom Arnold · Feb 19, 2016

OK.... I did a bit of research and found that you are correct. The hollow pivot pin was not needed for the 155/195 tractors. Thanks for correcting me on that issue. However, the rest of what I said still stands. You have a right-angle gear box with over 30 parts in it plus a drive shaft with two universal joints that need to be greased.

Post 1970 tractors with the Snap Fast system for connecting attachments, eliminates all that extra weight and complexity. ONE V BELT worth about $20.00 is all it takes to send engine power to the H through S Series of snow casters. No complicated attachment issues. No PTO countershaft. No driveshaft, No gearbox and all parts are readily available. Do the old style casters work? Of course they do. But the fact remains that using one means you are gambling on it not breaking down and becoming an oversize paperweight.

Case 155 Value ?

Mike Beeker

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