gt235 hydraulic pump

8N Tim

Member
I have a gt235 that I'm trying to build a loader for
does anybody have any good ideas on how to put a
hydraulic pump on it? I need at least three and a half
to 4 gallons per minute.
 
You are going to need a control valve with 2 spools. One spool must have a "float" feature. The valve should also have an adjustable relief built into it so you can set the pressure to about 1200 PSI. This control valve should ideally be of the "joystick" style to make operating the loader easier. One or both of the "towers" that support the back end of the loader arms can be the hydraulic reservoir. Threaded fittings are available that can be welded into the tubing for the drain port as well as the pump supply and return ports. Do not forget to install a breather port near the top of the tower so that air can get in and out and of course, you will need a fill port.

For a low cost pump, I suggest this one.


http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/Vane-Pumps/0-60-CU-IN-CRS-V10-1P3P-1C20-VANE-PUMP-9-8532-3.axd

It appears to have a proper bearing race supporting the input shaft. This is important because you are going to have to put a pulley on that shaft and use the PTO clutch pulley on your engine to drive it via a V-belt. That means you are putting "side loading" on the pump shaft and cheap aluminum housing pumps will fail quickly with side loading. While this pump is capable of delivering double the GPM your loader needs, you can slow the pump down by putting a larger pulley on it. A 10 micron inline filter on the return line coming from the control valve will keep the oil clean. Using both towers as reservoirs will negate the need for any oil cooling tecniques. Of course, you will have to vent both towers and join the two together with a hose. Return the oil into the right tower and supply the pump from the right tower to ensure constant flow of oil through both towers.

Use hoses rated at 3000 PSI working pressure and 1/2 inch inside diameter. Everything should be rated to flow 10 GPM or more so that there are no restrictions to cause heat build up. Making the brackets to hold the pump on the side of the engine will take some time and some good engineering skills but it can be done.
 
Building your own loader sounds like fun..............until you get into it ........and realize that there is a lot more to coming up with a good design then welding a bunch of steel together. The link below will take you to a site that SELLS engineered plans for loaders that work. You get a list of what materials to buy so that you know that the sizes and thicknesses are going to hold up under the strain but not put too much weight onto your front axle and wheels. The plans tell you the lengths to cut as well as the angles. This is like painting by numbers and all you have to do is follow the instructions carefully and then perform some 1st Class welding. The plans tell you what diameter and stroke you need for the cylinders as well as where to attach those cylinders so that they exert the pressure where it is needed.

Instructions on how to build the bucket as well as where to attach the pivot and cylinder points. This might sound simple but you would be surprised on how easy it is to make mistakes that cost time and money. You want a bucket that will dump out the load cleanly but also roll back to the point where you can carry a full bucket load without it spilling all over the place. Cylinder placement also affects the breakout force of the bucket. This is money well-spent and no.... I have no connection to PF. Spending 60 bucks now to end up with a top-notch FEL that looks like a factory made it is the way to go. Steel is not cheap to buy. Hydraulic cylinders are also not inexpensive items.
PF engineering
 

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