Troy Bilt-Tiller rebuild help

skater · Jul 14, 2015

I have a mid-70's Troy-Bilt that I am in the process of re-building.

The original drive shaft has been re shimmed; a new tiller shaft, and bronze gear and the oil seals replaced. I am noting that with all re-assembled there seems to be a large amount of play in the tiller shaft. This without the tine assemblies installed.

I am concerned that this play will result in oil seal failure and/or premature failure of some new and not inexpensive parts. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

T.R.K. · Jul 14, 2015

Does that one use tapered bearings on the tiller shaft? If so, you should be able to shim it until there is no play at all. I am thinking that there should be shims, at least. Only a parts catalog will tell for sure.
Ball bearings are another story. You may have to replace about everything in there to make it better.

In your post, you did not say if you replaced the bearings on that shaft. That may be the place to start.

It would be great find a service manual for those gearboxes on the 'net somewhere. It should tell how to set the endplay or pre-load on all the shafts. That would help all us old guys who are still trying to make that stuff work a while longer. My experience when I call MTD is none of their tech guys know very much about the tiller line.

Billy NY · Jul 14, 2015

I believe you can get a manual from the MTD/Troy Bilt website, match up the serial number and there should be a .pdf file you can download, I've got one for my 70's era horse. There are many listings for these tillers and or the line going back a ways.

skater · Jul 14, 2015

Thanks for the feedback. I am trying to determine if any amount of "play" in the tiller shaft is normal. I think you are suggesting it is not. Likely it should be much like the drive shaft - shimmed for little to no play at all and not too tight.

This tiller uses Timken bearings and races throughout.
I re-used them here as they seemed to be in good condition with little noticeable wear.

Although the parts diagram does not show shims, the new bronze gear came with two. These are installed on either side of the gear.
I will research a little more to determine if there is a shim kit available.

Indiana Ken · Jul 14, 2015

I just replaced bearings on the drive shaft in mine - I shimmed it to .002" - .003" preload. The parts manual from the web site said something like "select shims as required", not very helpful.

I also replaced the seals on the tine drive. Since there was no detectable end play I did not look at the bearings. If the bearings are loose the seals will have to follow the movement with out leaking - tough job.

skater · Jul 15, 2015

Looks like I will be opening this again to remedy the orbital movement in the tiller shaft. Here's what I learned from the collective on another forum:

Shim or shims are installed between the left side bearing and the bronze worm gear. This will push the Timken bearing further into the race by taking up the "slack" caused by wear in the bearing and race.

It also can happen when the 1129-2 thicker cover gasket is used. There is 1129-2 gasket only intended for use when the bearings are too tight and only turned with effort. They should turn freely. This apparently is rarely needed.

Going shopping for the correct dimension spacers....

Clarification to my statement above regarding Timken bearings - they are [i:e973dc1baf]not[/i:e973dc1baf] used in transmission case. Diagram shows ball bearings on the wheel and gear clusters.

ShadetreeRet · Jul 15, 2015

I told you if you came down here you would get more help, didn't I? Hunh, Hunh, now didn't I, Hunh? LOL

Troy Bilt-Tiller rebuild help

skater

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T.R.K.

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Billy NY

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skater

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Indiana Ken

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skater

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ShadetreeRet

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