John Deere 216 Mower Deck Install ?

lpaz

Member
Ok, so I purchased a 1979 John Deere 216 that came with a snowblower and the mower deck, but none of them are currently attached to the tractor. The guy who had the tractor says it needs a new drive belt, and he included the new belt with the tractor, but I need to know how the drive belt is installed and how the mower deck gets installed. Anybody have experience or any tips for working with this model of tractor?
 
1. check over deck BEFORE it is installed. Does turning one blade by hand move all blades, if so belt under deck cover is in place. Satisfy yourself that the blades are sharp enough. If not, use 9/16 box end wrench on the single blade bolt, holding blade still with gloved hand.

2. shove deck under tractor from side, just in front of rear wheels, generally centering it. The deck needs two vertical hangers (adjustable, but don't mess with them as they probably are adjusted properly years ago). These hangers have an eye-type hole that slips over the domed bolt/stud up under the tractor, but be sure the lower "L" pin points outward from the tractor centerline. Also loop the new drive belt on the deck pulley before lifting the deck and engaging the "L" pins as you will have to drop the right hand "L" pin hookup when it comes time to install the deck belt!Install cotter pins to keep the "L" pins engaged.

3. There is a front tow-plate that has a pair of yokes that need to be tied to the front of the deck by pulling the spring loaded "U" pins on the deck (might need pliers or vise grip depending on how strong your fingers are or how dirty/rusty the pins are. Best to WD40 the "U" pins and clean and oil the sliding bolts on the other end (tractor front end) of the plate...be sure those sliding pins are moveable and lock-out able before you lift the tow-plate and put in inside the flanges at the front of the tractor, popping the sliding bolts loose from the lock position, allowing the bolts to get into those flange holes. Might need a pry bar or 2x4 to move parts around for positioning. You will need someone to lift the deck front or may have to block up the deck front to even get close to running the bolts home. OF COURSE, HAVE DECK LIFT LEVER OR ELEC. LIFT IN LOW POSITION!!!

4. Loosen front of the tractor mower belt tightener (might be black broken plastic tee handle) unscrewing it while watching the spring it stretches to see if it disengaged with the tightener pulley, if it is, unscrewing the tightener won't do anything for you if the spring is not held from turning....best WD40 the heck out of the bolt from the handle into the spring. If spring is disengaged from tightner pulley, it is easy to hook back up if you have the fingers of a 15 year old hand. Does not have to be unscrewed very far, just enough to ease the belt on.

5. Not easy to describe the belt install, except the first thing is to jam it up between the PTO pulley and the frame, getting it over the pulley. Next, be sure it is under the flat face bend pulley with the belt wide face against the flat pulley face. Now the harder part, get the belt reeved through the anti-jump off keeper and the tightner pulley with the usual vee belt riding in the vee pulley....by this time that tensioning spring should hooked to the pulley, or get hooked up there. Examine the whole drive belt system, looking for unusual twists and BEING SURE the belt is between the keeper and the sheave on the tightner, other wise you will get stinking smoke and the opportunity to buy another belt in the few minutes you wondering what is wrong!!!

6. Now tighten (righty-tighty) that handle (or what is left of it) on the front of the tractor...a lot. Belt should seem tight if has been done right.

7. You are on your own as to any cutting height or levelling adjustments needed.

Do not hose down the top of the deck as this deck has a no-drain depressed gallery for the belt and spindle pulleys and will never dry out...the cover is not sealed..can't be.

Deck failure modes are holes worn or rusted through above the blades, bent deck sheet metal where the spindle bearing mounts due to hitting obstructions, causing uneven blade-to-blade horizontal planes, which, however, can be compensated for by washers between the deck and spindle bearing casting, if necessary. Do not even try to unbolt the the round-head fasteners that hold the bearings, best just grind off the suckers and put in new bolts and or bearings. You can tell if the bearings are toast by seeing if the blades tips can be wiggled up or down. I suggest the mower not be running for that test(snicker).

These are good decks and will handle a good amount of grass. The anti-scalp rollers and wheels are NOT to be used as gage (depth of cut)...the depth is controlled by the suspenion mechanism of the tractor.

Hope all this helps. I have made every mistake and repair so I have a Doctorate in this specialty!!

IaLeo
 
Drove a 112 around my yard since early 80's, just sold it a month ago. It has the same system. A couple minor differences in my mounting steps.
First off, the black knob on the belt tighhtener broke, so I just replaced it with a pair of lock nuts. Easy to spin with a 9/16 wrench.
As to installing the belt. I think the 216 has elec PTO clutch. Unplug the wire to clutch. Working from the top, slip the belt under the PTO pully, reach under frame with left hand & pull the loop down. It slips between the pulley & the notch in frame real nice. Have belt in place on deck pulley before hooking right side lift link.
HTH
Willie
 
Thanks for the help, guys, and especially the step-by-step procedure, Leo. That helps a lot. Going over to where the mower is this afternoon and I'll see what I can get done with it. I know its an older model, a 79 I believe, but hoping to get some good use out of it yet.
 
Oops, just realized something. You mentioned drive belt, & I was thinking PTO belt to the mower.
Were you perchance referring to the main transmission belt? If so, it is a bit more involved, you definitely need the owner's manual for that.
Willie
 
Yeah, this is the drive belt I was referring to. I got the rear belt off and started taking the front one off today, but only got as far as loose I g the eyebolt from the tension spring. I don't have it l the way loose yet so I'm going back out tomorrow. The guy I bought it from says he has a bunch of manuLs but hasn't come up with them yet. I'll see how it goes tomorrow I guess. He had the new front drive belt but I think I'm going to order a new rear drive belt and a new mower deck bt as well.
 
Sorry, hate the way this phone works or doesn't when trying to reply to posts sometimes. Anyway it was supposed to say "loosened" and new rear "belt".
 
Sorry, hate the way this phone works or mostly doesn't when trying to reply on here. It was supposed to say "loosened", and new mower deck "belt".
 
sliding that deck under the tractor is easier done on a hardsurface driveway or garage floor. You are sliding the gage wheels sideways. Willie is right, it is some what easier poking the deck belt down around the PTO sheave and inside the frame. I had until recently two 212's and a 214, all with electric lift and 47" decks. One 212 had a electric clutch but I never had to unplug mine, but there were small differences between the three of them.I liked the later year 212 as it would allow the clutch pedal to be held down when you set the brake, which meant that you need not take it out of gear when you stopped to pick up something in the way, then simply take off the brake, not needing to grind gears to get going again. You will/should lubricate the center sliding portion of the variator sheave system once per year or when moving the variator (speed control) lever and it sticks or doesn't let the tractor move at the "low" end. It is a fairly big deal if you are not able to get under the tractor and do your own mechanic work. It involves clamping the clutch pedal to the foot board, taking off the sheave on the transmission by using a socket from a wrench set or a short piece of conduit or like to poke through the frame and engage the spring loaded belt tension working the rear drive belt, then removing three capscrews to get the transmission pulley off it's hub, freeing up the rear drive belt so that you can see the bottom of the variator double pulley (I use the term pulley and sheave interchangeably). that center pulley part must slide easily back and forth with your fingers, otherwise the operator lever will not work smoothly or at all. I cleaned mine with WD40 and a cloth, trying not to get too much on the belts. It takes a while...a good two or more hours and the tractor has to be elevated and blocked for safety so you can work on your back for awhile. I always used a scrap sheet of cardboard to lay on, saving my tuxedo from getting too messy. That is a good time to add a few squirts of transmission oil in the TOP plug hole if there is any evidence of oil leakage at the wheel shafts. Use a squirt oil can, it is much easier than funnels, etc..
These pretty tough units, don't turn too short, but will out pull some of the big box store hydrostats if ballasted and chained. All mine took to jumping out of the popular second gear but I did not care as most of my 6 acre rough yard needed first gear full out variator only, usually pulling one, sometimes two 60" Swisher tow mower. Granny gear or the one slower than first was used some times when grass was deep and the darned tow mowers couldn't handle the grass volume even though they had 12hp engines and were pulling nothing.
Good luck. If you need more help, look me up, my email is open. IaLeo
 
Well, got the new drive belt on today---gawd what a royal pain---- and started tightening up the torsion bar spring. Not sure if the belt is adjusted quite properly yet but I'm waiting on the rear drive belt and the mower deck belt to get here so I'll finish it up when I get the new belts in. Hoping to get the mower deck on it this next week if the belts get here by mid week or so.
 

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