Have a '72 Gilson with 12 HP Briggs engine. Engine would start. Amp gauge was not working. Ran new wires from amp gauge to proper terminals. Also ran a wire from fuse terminal to battery side of solenoid. Went to start the engine the solenoid clunked and it was dead. Ran a jumper from starter to battery. Engine turned over but would not start. Tried to start normal way again and got the same clunk in the solenoid. When do I throw in the towel?? Fred
 
1. The engine can physically turn over, can't it? I have seen people invest in new starters and they never verified that the engine crankshaft was free.

2. Try putting the wiring back the way it was. You may have created the problem when you tried to 'fix' the ammeter. I don't know what you did, but the ammeter usually goes in the hot wire that runs between the switch and the positive battery cable connection on the solenoid. There is usually a fuse in that wire too.

3. Check and clean the battery cable ground connection. I hope it runs to the engine block. Sometimes a jumper cable connected from the negative battery post to the block uncovers a poor ground situation.

4. If its a 3 pole solenoid, see if you are getting voltage to the little start post when you turn the key to 'start'. If you are, the solenoid itself is probably bad.
 
It is a 4 pole solenoid. I believe it is wired OK but will recheck. One small terminal on the bottom is free. Not sure what the extra terminal is for.
Fred
 
Grounded the 2nd small terminal engine starts. Amp gauge still doesn't work. It tests as being OK. One wire is connected to the battery positive side. The other amp wire must be the problem and I do not know how to bypass or what to connect this to. Any suggestions? Thanks Fred
 
3 post solenoids are internally grounded to the frame of the device which must be in electrical contact through whatever means to the - terminal of the battery to have a closed path and conduct electricity that will close the switch and supply power from the big terminals to the starter. Obviously the small 3rd terminal gets 12v via the start position on the ignition switch.

4 post have the ground wire isolated from the case and you have to tie that to the - terminal of the battery through whatever means...bracket, engine block, something metallic that will conduct electricity and do the same with the 3rd post.
 
The last 4 post solenoid I worked on was on a Snapper and on that one the 4th post on the solenoid found its ground through all the interlock switches.

Since the unit had been in a fire I got to cut open the harness and trace the circuit manually back through the clutch, pto, and seat switch to where it grounded under the seat on that mower. (lucky me.)

Happy hunting!
 
Forgot to add: It sounds like your circuit from the ammeter to the solenoid is what I would consider 'right'.
I would think the other side of the ammeter should connect to either the ignition switch, or possibly the charging wire from the stator or voltage regulator.

If it is supposed to connect to the ignition switch, how is that switch getting power from the hot post on the solenoid now?
 
The plus side is OK. The other wire goes to the regulator. Do to the cramped and barely accessible area I have decided to forget the problem. It must be working OK as the battery is stays charged.
My hands in places are bruised red and one would think I was on blood thinner.
Thanks for all your help. Fred
 

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