Craftsman DTYL 3000 with 18.5 bring---opinions??

DTL 3000...no "Y"...sorry!!
Everyone...
I am new to this "small engine" part of the forum, but am a long time user on the Ford 9N site.
I thought I would pick your brains on my little red tractor. I have about a 10 year old Craftsman (DTL 3000) with an 18.5 hp Briggs engine. I use this for the lawn at my home, nothing too rough. I take pretty good care of this tractor (or at least I thought I did!)
. It is in good shape, with good tires and no rust on the deck or anything.
Recently, while mowing the lawn, it started to sputter, like it was running out of fuel. As is drove to the side of the house to refill the fuel, it backfired and died. I refilled the fuel, and could not get it started. I have since replaced the sparkplug and fuel filter. I did get it to run, but very roughly. It seems to be "cycling" 4 smooth "putts", then 4 "rough putts".
I could not locate a small engine repair shop close to home. I ended up calling Sears and had them send their technician out. He said initially it might be a bent valve or pushrod. Upon disassembly of the valve cover.....it pronounced it as something deeper internally. He said it is not a valve or a pushrod, and that the engine had very low compression. He said it either needed rebuilt or replaced, approx. $1100 either way. I declined these options and paid Sears $109 for the at home diagnosis.
I am looking to some opinions as to proceed with my options. As I see them, my options are as follows:
1-push it to the curb and buy a new one for @ $1300. Not at all what I want to do.
2-buy the identical tractor now on local Craigslist for $750....and keep mine and have a ton of spare parts...but have to store 2 tractors in the off season. Again, not really ideal.
3-buy a replacement engine...located a site called engines4less on the internet, and they advertise a 19hp replacement at $629 with free shipping. Anyone heard of dealt with these folks??? It appears they are out of Nebraska?
4- I have located a "semi-local" shop (about an hour away) that is supposedly reputable that could repair/rebuild my motor...but they will not give me an estimate (not even in the ballpark) over the phone. I would need to bring the motor there and leave it with them for an estimate.
With a replacement avail at @ $600....is them rebuilding/repairing my existing motor a possibility?
I am competent enough mechanic to remove the motor from the tractor, and do general repairs, but I am not comfortable attempting an engine rebuild on my own...especially with the cost of parts and my concern for not getting it right. I am Ok with farming the work out...but just not sure what makes sense.
I live in the Pittsburgh, PA area.
Any suggestions??

Mike
 
Try calling Small Engine Warehouse and tell them what you need. They may have a complete replacement engine or maybe a long block. Their prices are not bad. If you do rebuild yours you should take it all apart and replace every thing that is woren while you have it open.
 
Hi first I'd find the cause of low compression ( low compression can be hard to determine on an engine with a compression release) but it could be that it just needs a valve adjustment and you can not tell that by removing the valve cover alone. Also check to see if you have good spark the magnetron may have failed, or it could be that the flywheel key has sheared these are not hard to do and much cheaper than new engines or overhauling, was the engine using oil?
GB in MN
 
You CAN tell if most overhead valve Briggs engines need a valve adjustment after removing the valve cover. You remove the cover, roll the crank up on compression and check the gap between the rockers and the valve stems. You can also inspect the push rods after the cover is removed.

I wonder what else the guy checked. Does feathering in the choke help it run better? Is it hard to start, hard for the starter to spin it over?
 
OOPs, forgot to answer your other question. An overhaul is usually not cost effective. The last engine I overhauled for someone took about 11 hours to do and the time multiplied by the shop rate usually makes a new engine look pretty attractive. The only exception is if a similar new engine is no longer available.
 
Mike, I just read your post, it is now about a week old, but I hope you see this anyway. Judging by the way you describe the problem, I must say that I disagree with the Sears tech. First, the way you say it runs, it sounds like it could be a fuel problem. Make sure the fuel tank is clean and the carburetor may need to be disassembled and cleaned. For a wealth of information, go to www.briggsandstratton.com. It sounds like you have enough mechanical savvy to do your own work. If you can remove and replace an engine, then you can tear it down and put it back together, you just have to be careful and you need a B&S service manual that covers your engine. Frankly, before I would spend $1100. on repairs, I would spend another two or three hundred for a new mower because everything on your mower is the same age and you never what will go next. Just my humble opinion. Good Luck
 
...........just a quick follow up. I pulled the engine from the frame myself. I found a guy (semi-local) and he diagnosed this as a bad valve guide. I ordered the parts from Sears, (as he said he had a hard time getting proper part #'s for Craftsman equipment), and I had them shipped right to his shop. It is now repaired and the engine is back on the lawn tractor. Total cost @ $150, parts, expedited shipping and labor. Much better deal than Sears $1300 estimate!!
Thanks to all for the advice and assistance!
Mike
 

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