JD L130 transmission slips

My John Deere L130 riding mower transmission began to slip a bit at the end of last years mowing season. Now it doesn't even have the power to get up small hills when mowing, yet the engine is strong. Is it time to say good-bye to her? Thank you in advance to all my respondants!

It truly is a sad day when a company as old and respected as John Deere puts out products with hydrostatic trans-axles that prove to be as inferior as the one in your L130. Rather than go into it further on this site, I suggest that you click on the link below and read it from top to bottom.
L130 problem

A replacement transaxle will cost more than the lawn tractor is worth.
Contrary to what a lot of people say, a few people have rebuilt these
transaxles with good results. Deere doesn't sell parts for the hydrostat
but the manufacturer does. Cleanliness matters a lot, and synthetic
fluid will let the rebuilt unit last a lot longer.

Rebuilding a hydro is not for the faint of heart. Yes it can be done and YES... others have done it. The link below will take you to a blog written by someone who went through the process. Deciding the best course of action for YOU... comes from doing proper research first. Keep in mind that the K-46 Tuff Torq trans-axle is considered to be a POS by many people. So.... is it a good move to rebuild a POS? Will it not be the same POS it was when the tractor was brand new? Since you won't be replacing every part in your K-46, how long do you think it will be before you are right back where you are right now?

Only you have the answers to those questions.

Good luck.
K46 rebuild

Double check the drive belt and tensioners. A slipping belt can feel just like transmission problems.

Add me to the list of owners with transaxle problems. Not asking for sympathy yet.
Picked up a LT180 with 600 hours on the clock at auction last summer. Runs good, so at $700 didn't think I got beat too bad. Drove around the yard a bit & ready to haul home. It wouldn't climb the ramps onto the trailer. Easy push got it loaded.
Tried mowing, but after about 15 minutes it wouldn't move itself. Let it cool down & drove to shop. Took the unit out following the book, the hard way, discovered the fan blades were GONE. 20 bucks for a new fan, put it together & could now mow 35-40 minutes.
Took the unit out again, the easy way this time*(see below). Pried out a filler cap. Fluid was nasty, with lots of shavings on the magnet. Figured can't hurt it any more, so did quick dump, rinse, & refill with 85-140 gear lube. Now can mow everything, but it won't climb out of the road ditch going straight up, will climb at an angle.
Now the big decision. Web site had K66 kit for a bit over $2200.00, found a couple listings for new K46 at about $230.00. If a K46 lasts me 3-4 years, I can buy 10 of them for same price as 1 K66. In another 8-10 years I'll be too old to worry about doing any mowing, so will probably go the cheap route.

* R&R transaxle the easy way.
This works on the LT180, other models may vary slightly.
1-Get it up off the floor. My trailer is 18-20 inches high, makes handy work platform.
2-Leave the mower deck ON.
The rest of work can be done sitting on a chair or bucket instead of lying on the floor.
3-Jack up so wheels hang free.
4-Lower the deck to trailer floor.
5-Wedge a 2x4 between lift arms & tractor frame. Deck wheels will support the tractor.
6-Remove wheels & gas tank.
7-Working through the rear of frame, everything can be disconnected to remove unit.

When re-installing unit, a pair of C clamps will hold housing to frame rails while installing bolts.
Happy mowing to you all.

Willie

If you can get a new K46, drain out the factory fluid and replace it with synthetic,
it won't be a K66 but it will last quite a long time.

steve
ordered new trans today. thanks for the tip on synth oil. will change it when it comes.
willie

The term K46 is generic. It simply signifies a certain series of Tuff Torq trans-axles. However, the K46 was then customized by Tuff Torq to suit the specifications set down by the end user. My point is this. Do not buy a new or used K46 in the belief that all K46's are identical. Axle shafts are a prime example of customization. They could be keyed, splined or D-shaped to match the rims that slid onto them.

Secondly, Tuff Torq specifies the use of synthetic oil. Most likely, the new trans-axle you buy will have synthetic already in it. The issue then becomes whether that trans-axle has drain and refill plugs on it because there were a lot of K46 units that were sealed totally, making it nearly impossible to change the oil.

Do your homework before laying out the dough.

(quoted from post at 22:22:40 04/04/15) It truly is a sad day when a company as old and respected as John Deere puts out products with hydrostatic trans-axles that prove to be as inferior as the one in your L130. ...

Click to expand...

To be fair, I can't blame Deere for that. They just made what a major portion of the market wanted...a cheap mower.

Cheap mowers means cheap components, and cheap components means things like light duty transmissions that just barely have the capability of moving on flat ground while running a mower deck. Try climbing hills all the time and/or pulling a heavy load and they have a short life.