Troy Built tiller belts

old

Well-known Member
So One of the 2 belts broke on my Troy build horse tiller. My dad got this in 1972. So I picked up 2 new belts today. Sp is there an easy way to install them. Do you put them on the engine pulley first then snake them down around the transmission pulley 2nd?? Been at least 5 if not 10 years since I have had to change a set of them.
Thanks
 
I got them both on but what a pain in the back sides. Had to put the first one on then pop it off the engine pulley and then get the 2nd one on. Now they fit so tight that when you start it up it tries to take off so to start it I have to wire the handle up into the reverse area or it will run off. Reverse has not worked on this one if over 3 decades any how. Have the handle sitting in the run position so maybe the new belts will stretch a bit. I used a set of Gates 6821 belts which is what I took off
 
While you have it all apart you should have changed the reverse disk. Another thing to change is that block that the roller clicks in and out of. Also maybe the roller. I guess that little spring too. All of these parts get wear and things do not quite work just right. That block gets adjusted so the drive locks real good. When you pop it out of drive it should stay in neutral. Reverse has to be held in position. Hope this helps, Jeffcat
 
I have a Horse-1 from the early 1970's. The reverse did not work on mine because the PO had installed the engine without shimming the engine pulley....the reverser disk needs to be aligned to fit its groove on the tiller pulley. I installed a stack of four 0.070" machinery spacers and am ready to put the engine back on. I am not looking forward to it. I have both belts installed on the engine pulley now. I am thinking if the alignment is off it would affect the belt tension.
 
This Koler 8HP engine has been on this since some time in the early 80s so aliment is not the problem it is just new belts that have not glazed over yet to be able to slip as they should
 
Why throw so many parts at it?? It has worked just fine for decades so I'll just do as I need and not spend $$ to fix what does not need to be fixed. Shoot the tires that are on it are the one that where on it when new back in 1972
 

Reason the belts are tight as the gates are just a standard size and not an OEM spec belt.

Since your running dual drive belts I'm guessing you need the 1128-1 matched set which are 21-3/4'' Long those gates ones are 21''
 
Just a check list. Those are the parts I changed when I fixed mine up. The parts were about the same as the belt set. Mine would pop out of "gear" and these were the trouble. db
 
This one was my dads. Over the years he had the transmission rebuilt once or twice but he also would till 2 or more acres with it every year
 
Never knew that about the belts, changed one set on my dads 8hp kohler magnum pto horse, forgot how I installed them now. My horse may need them at some point. I could not run it like Rich described, as I have some tight places to work with it, sucker needs to stop on a dime and reverse sometimes. Reverse and adjusting same is pretty easy, but one thing is for sure mine does not like to disengage from drive, have fooled with the block and roller, cleaned and lubed, you have to move the lever with a certain jerk kind of motion, do it slow and you will bend the lever. Have yet to figure it out, its worse when warmed up, liveable, but it couldn't have left the factory that stiff or I would think.
 
Many many years ago I had to repair that bar that engages and disengages the drive. My dad broke it due to the same problem. I ended up welding 2 round bars to the sides of it top stiffen it up. As for a fix try a different spring so it does not lock in so tight.
 
I've heard of it before with these, maybe it is that spring, this one never saw a ton of use, one owner, very small garden, kept inside since new. It sure does flex when you move it, but works fine if you move it a certain way like I mentioned, but I've also kind of gotten used to it. Only thing I had to do when I first got it, was adjust the reverse on it.
 
This tiller was in sad shape when I bought it in either 2005 or 2006 for $100.00. It needed tines, seals under the tine holders and a belt. I sold the Tecumseh engine for $65.00. I bought a 10hp B&S engine with electric start, new tines, belt and seals. The belt is Gates 22 inch Green stripe and will withstand a lot of declutching and engaging. It's been on there 9 years. I also installed a new reverse disc. I painted it while the engine was off.
Hal
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