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MTD Belt Problem?

H

Highlander

Member
This week I replaced the original belt between the engine pulley and the variable speed pulley. This is the first replacement for this belt. The MTD is an 18.5 hp garden tractor I bought new in 1995. The belt between the VS pulley and the transaxle was replaced (for the first time) about two years ago.

Before I replaced the belt I was down to one speed except on level ground. With the new belt, it again has 7. The problem is, it won't let me shift out of gear unless I kill the engine. I have not yet adjusted the front and rear speed control rods. Too cold to work on it and too much snow to move it from my equipment shed to my heated garage. Anything beyond the adjustment rods I should do? It may not snow tomorrow, but the high is going to be 4 degrees, so I have some time before I get back to it.

For the record: my other tractor is a '49 Farmall Cub, and my other snow blade is on my '82 F-150.
 
I learned a long time a go to all ways replace
both belts at the same time. If they are not. It
won't work.
 
Congratulations for getting 20 years out of that belt. Most don't go that long.

How rusty is the engine pulley? If it is rusty or pitted AT ALL you need a new pulley, the belt will catch on the imperfections and keep trying to drive the mower.

Did you bend the flanges of the engine pulley putting that belt on? Did you bend the belt guides?

Did you put the belt guides back around the engine pulley? They need to be within about 1/8" -3/16" of the belt to make it bend around the pulley instead of gripping the front side when the belt is slacked by the clutch. Some MTD used 1/4" or 5/16" pins for belt guides, one on each side of the pulley. Sometimes they are no longer there, they fell out, but the threaded hole is present. I use bolts with the head cut off and a locknut and loctite to keep them in place.

If you have either of the above conditions no amount of adjustment will fix your problem.

If all the above is o.k., you can try shortening the link back to the variable pulley to get more slack in the belt when the clutch is pressed. You will loose some forward speed, however.
 
On those variable drives the belt size and length is very critical. To get them to work right you need original from manufacturer, not universal replacements.
 
I found that out last Summer when I replaced the drive belt on my Toro mower. I bought a belt
from the local auto supply store. It wouldn't work and Home Depot didn't carry the correct belt even though I bought the mower from them. I went to a local Toro dealer and he wanted the mower model number and came back with the correct belt.
It fixed the problem. Hal
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I did not replace
the plate that has the belt guides, thinking
they were only important when the "PTO" belt
was in place. I'll try that after I re-tighten
the 1/4-20 bolts I put in to replace the
originals about ten years ago. Also, the rear
or final drive belt was replaced with a Gates
belt and has not given any trouble, so I'll
work with the new one and get it right.

NOTE: When I bought this garden tractor in '95,
the salesman said 10 years and it would be
finished. I've abused this machine for 20
years, and only had two problems:this belt and
a bit of plastic that would get sucked into the
fuel line in the tank. Took longer to solve
that one!
 
Yesterday it was warm enough to work on the MTD
again. I replaced the plate with the belt guides,
and IT WORKED! Now fully capable again: 7 speeds,
shifts from forward to reverse, and does a great
job! This morning, after the latest snow, I used
it to clear the new snow from the house all the
way to the road, and all of the parking and
turning space in front of the buildings. Thanks
to all who gave advice, especially to t.r.k.
 
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