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calling Tom Arnold

D

Dutchman

Well-known Member

Tom,
Asking about a Kohlor 14hp engine ..Model # K321A , Spec # 60272 < Serial# 1935514763 ..
I post earlier and was about compression .. I can turn the engine over easy by hand .. you suggest take the head off .. did that tonite , it's not too bad some black on the engine and black on the head
I turn it over and the valves open and shut ,I really didn't have time to check it over good , but thought it look like the exhaust valve wasn't shutting all the way till the piston was 1/2 way up again .{ I might be seeing things too was in a hurry } I didn't feel any groove on the cyl. wall ...
What do you suggest ?? the engine is out of the garden tractor now ...
Is it a BIG deal to overhaul it ?

SORRY for the long post ... mark
 
No, it is not a big deal to overhaul it but the question is whether an overhaul is truly needed.

If this was my engine, I would clean the carbon deposits from the underside of the valves. Then check the valves for cracks, check the seats. Set the valve lash and put the engine back together. If this is a Start/Gen unit, then install the Start/Gen. You can spin the engine in reverse by applying the positive battery lead to the engine block and the negative battery lead to the Armature post. A compression test can be made.

You could also do a Leak Down Test to show if the rings are bad, the valves are bad or both are bad.

Your other option is to just plunge ahead and do a proper rebuild. Dismantle the engine. Take the block, crank and camshaft to a machine shop. They will check the bore, measure the crank throw and profile the camshaft.

New piston, rings, wrist pin, con rod, governor gear, gaskets, valves, valve springs and possibly some bearings will be required. Kits are available on e-Bay.
 

Tom ,
That sounds good .. I will do what you suggest and see what I come up with ...
Not trying to be a smart guy ... but I have no idea what valve lash is ...
I look at it a little closer tonite .. the exhaust valve close good and tight till the piston comes up on the compression stroke .. the piston is just about all the way up and the exhaust valve opens just a little crack ..
I know this isn't right , just not sure how to correct it ..
................. THANKS for your help ....
........ mark
 
"I know this isn't right , just not sure how to correct it .."

The exhaust valve action your are seeing is the ACR (Automatic Compression Release) working as it is supposed to. So there's NOTHING that needs to corrected!

(Explanation starts on Page 95.)
Read about it in that factory manual HERE
 

Bob ,
But from what I seen on my other post { down a few , about compression } I don't have ACR .. my model # doesn't have the "S" on it .... it is K-321A ..
THANKS for sharing ... mark
 
Regardless of the stamped model number, have you looked at the camshaft gear to verify whether or not the ACR mechanism is there?
 
The "A" suffix means "special oil pan". The (missing) "S" indicates electric start.

From Page 95 of the manual to which I posted a link: "All K-series single cylinder engines, except the K-91 are equipped with Automatic Compression Release (ACR).

The ACR mechanism lowers the compression at cranking speeds to make starting easier."
 
"The (missing) "S" indicates electric spark."

Learn something new everyday! And I thought it meant electric starter. Like in K301 S. Do they have something else other that electric spark? Like D for diesel ?
 

Jack, obviously I made a typo, which I have corrected. Thanks for pointing it out to me.

On the other hand, I linked the factory manual, which explains the codes AND the ACR.
 
Valve Lash is the same as valve clearance. These engines do not have hydraulic valve lifters and it is important to have a certain amount of clearance between the valve and the camshaft.

You need a set of FEELER GAUGES to perform this task, which is outlined in the Kohler Service Manual. Any automotive parts store that sells tools will have feeler gauges.

I suggest that you spend some time READING the Kohler manual.
 
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