Tecumseh SnowKing 5hp engine running problem

I have a Tecumseh snowking 5hp snowblower engine with non-adj. carb. It will start and run 30 seconds then die, after a couple minutes start again and run 30 seconds or more then die again, then start and keep running. It will not idle and runs rich. I have replaced w/new carb.,checked fuel tank and line, has good spark, replaced coil last yr. It did the same w/ the old carb.(old carb is good) Drilled hole in cap. Changed governor setting but doesn't seem to matter.
My thought is some kind of valve problem since it will run once warmed up but doesn't seem to have a lot of power.
Anybody have a good answer ?[color=darkred:8486f98ed0][/color:8486f98ed0][color=blue:8486f98ed0][/color:8486f98ed0][color=darkblue:8486f98ed0][/color:8486f98ed0] :?:
 
A sticking engine valve would get worse as the engine warms up, not better.

That nonadjustable carb is hard to work with - as you have seen, the new one is no better than the old one. They usually run too lean rather than too rich.

My best guess it that your carburetor float valve is sticking or maybe there is something stuck in the float valve seat. That would account for the starting problem and the rich running problem, if the valve sticks closed and then sticks open.

I don't mean to insult you, but how did you check the tank and line? Bottom line, there should be a good stream of gas if you push up on the little drain valve at the bottom of the float bowl. If not, you have a restriction in the line or valve.
 
Never had a non adjustable Tec. carb. but the older motors had a brass nut holding the carb bowl on , it had a couple tiny holes in it and was usually the source of Tech. problems.
 
Thanks for the reply. I had the tank and hose completely off the motor. The hose is like new and the tank is completely clear. I also put gas in the tank and let it run out. Steady stream. As for the carb. I pulled the new one off as I did the old one and checked the float. needle, seat, and brass nut holes. Everything is as should be. This carb. has no bowl drain as the other one had but didn't seem to matter. I will remove the new carb. again and recheck everything. You can insult me all you want if it works. Haha
 
gab and steve in mo, Forgot to add that I also checked the screw under the plastic cap on the side of the carb. on the old carb. It was clear, and steve in mo you're right about the valve making it worse. This motor has about 100 hrs. max on it and looks very new and clean. I bought it new to replace an older one on my Ariens snowblower. If any more ideas come up please let me know, meanwhile I will go over the new carb.
 
I have the 8 hp version of that dog - I mean engine - on a slightly bigger thrower. I only need it for a couple hours every few years but it runs after I get done fiddling with it every fall. It surges badly (too lean) unless the auger is full of snow when the governor opens it up.

I bought a new reproduction adjustable carburetor on that auction site. It looks pretty accurate and smells like it had some fuel run through it. I'll let you know if it helps once I get it installed.
 
It would sure help if you would post the model and spec. number so we would know what engine you have.
 
I'm ready to throw in the towel. I've checked the non adj. carb. and it is new and clean. I cleaned an old adjustable snowking carb. and it does the same thing, runs then stops. So far I've put in a new carb.(non adj.), cleaned the original(non adj.), and cleaned and tried the adjustable from the original engine. All do the same thing. When starting cold, they start right up and run for a minute, then die, wait five min.,start again, run for a minute then die, wait five min.start a 3rd time then it runs. Can not spray starter or add gas because it will not start or run if I do this. I still think it is something in the engine or governor. This is a HSSK50 Snowking. I may just buy an LCT engine.
 
Not saying it's your problem because I think it would be rare but I had a 66 Wheel Horse Lawn Ranger that would run for about 30 min. and lose power and backfire, would run better by opening the main jet quickly and then would act up again, always thought it was the carb. Wasted hours tinkering of and on for years and gave up. Happened to be at an auction a few years ago and gave 5 bucks for a 6hsp. tech.snow king eng., same as I needed. It ran good but the rings were junk, swapped carbs. Wheel horse still ran rotten, swapped mag., and no change, swapped flywheel and the problem was gone. Must of lost it's magnetism or had a crack or something.
 
Another final thought. The brass nut that holds the carb bowl on has some very small holes through it on the inside. You may need reading glasses to see them. I certainly do. Try running a very small wire through those holes if you haven't already.
 
The small hole cleaning in the brass nut was one of the first things I did. I also cleaned the small hole inside the jet tube. Remember, the one carburetor is new. In the next day or two I will put a different hose on the carb. and put a funnel on the other end bypassing the gas tank and see if for some crazy reason it runs constantly. Thanks for the reply.
 
I was thinking about the magnet problem and let it pass, but you may have something there. Besides checking the gas tank again I will remove the pull start and check(again) the flywheel magnets and key. I think I can check the magnets against the magnetism of another flywheel I have. I have put an inline spark checker on and it recorded a good spark until the engine died, but I'll check anyway. I see that I'm not the only one that stays on a challenge for awhile. Thanks for the reply
 
Here's something I forgot to mention. After the 2nd stall, when I start it the 3rd time it will run and also the engine has warmed up from the previous two runs. Don't know how much power it has as I didn't try it under load, but it doesn't sound bad. Always 2 stalls, wait 5 min. between and runs on the 3rd try. Waiting for a tach to check the RPM.
 
I do small engine repair. On the Tecumseh the valve stems need to
be ground down. should have between .008 and .010 thousands
clearance. Also set the spark or ignition modual to .008.
Brian
 
Ok guys, sorry for the delay. I had other commitments. I pulled the engine off the ariens,and stripped it. I found NO gap in the exhaust valve( both valves in excellent shape) and ground the stem for the proper gap,lapped them in, took the side cover off and retimed the camshaft to the timing marks(it moved when I took cover off, so don't know where it was), checked the governor, and put a new float valve seat in the carb.added oil and reset all settings. It started right up and runs about 3500 rpm.and even idles.
The valve never closed as I could spin it at its low point. I can still see the hone marks in the cylinder. The engine oscillates a little and smooths out under load. I took it out and blew snow with it w/ no problems. What do you all think?
 
Stripped down my Tecumseh and found NO gap on exhaust valve, and valve was not seating, so you had something there. I ground the stem to .008-.012, lapped both valves in, removed side cover, and checked governor, reset cam gear to mark(it moved when I removed cover). put new seat in carb float valve. Set all settings to book and it started right up, and runs about 3500rpm. This engine didn't start well from new and I think the valve just got a little worse. There is about 100hrs. tops on this engine and cylinder still has hone marks, and valves look excellent. Thanks for the reply.
 

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