Case 444 is ready for snow.

Dave Sherburne NY

Well-known Member
I worked on my newest old tractor today. I cleaned up and painted the snow blade I got from Loren, the ACG and added a weight rack to the back. I went to Steel Sales to find some short pieces but nothing I could use so I had to climb over all the junk in the tent building and find some.When I was in Wi. last summer I bought a Milwaukee Chop Saw. I finally remembered I had it and it made short work of cutting the steel. I put the pieces from the lift on the tractor and built from there. I only have 3 Farmall weights here, my grandson has the rest at his house. The Case hasn't started good since I got it so I changed some wires and the points and adjusted the choke and it runs real well now. It has a minor leak in the hydraulic lift valve which I won't get to til next summer, what kind of oil goes in the lift system?
I don't have chains for this one so I think I will weight it down good and take it over and leave it at the church and use it on the blacktop.
Notice the Snowcaster in the background of one of the pictures, Got that from ACG too.Still waiting for new bearings for that.
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Looks good Dave, nice looking wt system you fabricated, the ags look good as does your plow blade.
GB in MN
 
Looks good Dave. Didn't need a 3pt you made it work with out it. I had an old wheel weight from a JD G tractor couldn't get it sold being I only had one so I did same you did I had some scrap iron around and I welded few brackets and bolted part of it to hitch and made braces to hold it from the top of frame on my JD 317. 125 lbs put to use anyways. I'm really not ready for the snow at least not like what we got last winter anyways. Anyways you done a good job on your setup! Happy holidays. Mike
 
Just takes motor oil. Is it 5w20 or such. Down load the owners manual. My 224 has a sticker on the oil tank i will take a look.
 
When it comes to the oil for the hydraulic system on Colt, Case and Ingersoll tractors, the factory has primarily recommended 20W40 MOTOR OIL during warm weather. The term "warm weather" means that the ambient temps are above the freezing point of water.

The problem with 20W40 is that it is no longer a "popular" viscosity and therefore not easy to come by. The 2nd problem is that when you do find it, it is expensive.

Most owners choose to go with 20W50 motor oil or.... 15W40 motor oil. And while straight grade 30W detergent based oil is also perfectly acceptable in the summer time, it can be rather thick when the temps drop to the freeze point and can make spinning the engine over more difficult.

If the tractor is to be used in temps that are consistently below the freezing point, then selecting a synthetic multi-grade such as 5W40 or 0W50 is often a good idea.... but somewhat expensive compared to DINO oil. It is also possible to use 10W40 DINO oil for the winter season and then change it out when hot weather returns.

On a 600, 6000 0r 7000 Series loader, this isn't very practical but on any 100, 200, 300, 3000 or 4000 Series garden tractor, it is not that big of a deal because you only have the mid-lift and 3 pt hitch cylinders to empty out manually.

What is most important is that the engine is in excellent tune so that it spins over strongly and then starts quickly. All too often, owners fail miserably on that thing called "routine maintenance" and then curse their tractor for not starting when they want it to.

Most of these tractors are at least 30 years old to as much as 50 years old. They have old wiring that has deteriorated over the years. Dirty connections and loose connections are often a problem and so are ignition switches that are worn really badly.

They have tired engines that are badly in need of properly set plug/s, points and a new condenser. How about a new coil wire/s? When was the last time you set the valve lash and pulled the head/s to de-carbon the combustion chamber and valves? Have you done a compression test AND a leak-down test to figure out how healthy your engine is?

While oil choice is somewhat important to help with cold weather starting, all of the above are far more important. Winter weather puts every aspect of the tractor to the test and either you are ready for that test or you will fail the first time it gets really cold out. And it is not the tractor that failed..... it is you that failed the tractor by not keeping it in proper working order.
 
We have a 4018 set up for snow duty and we don't put enough hours on it to justify changing the hydraulic oil twice a year, we are running 15w-40 Rotella dino. In the winter we start the engine and while letting it warm up we place the hi-lo gear box in neutral and the travel lever in fast forward, or however forward it can be placed without hearing any unusual moaning from the hydraulic system, depends on how cold it is in the garage. I a couple minutes everything is warmed up and ready to go plowing. If you run 30W I am not sure that this would work very well?
 

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