Question about Brinly 3-point moldboard plow

Brendon-KS

Well-known Member
Location
Goessel, KS
I am planning to build a Cat 0 hitch frame to complete a "it's all there except than that" Brinly plow that I have but I have a question about the design. Virtually all the pictures I have seen of these plows shows the square cross tube positioned above both pin holes on the right side and between the holes on the left. However, I have found a few pictures of factory-looking frames that have the tube between the holes on the right and below both holes on the left. In the parts catalog there are two part numbers for the frame, one for the PP-1200 and one for the PP-1210 but only the "typical" frame is pictured. Is the frame with the tube lower in relation to the hitch the 1210 version? I didn't come up with much when I googled "Brinly PP-1210". I will be using this plow on a Power King 2418 with the hitch positioned quite a bit higher than a typical garden tractor so the "non-typical" frame is appealing to me. But, I also want to have a plow that is an accurate copy of the original. Can anybody shed some light on the two frame versions? Thanks.
 

Are you building a Cat 0 or a sleeve hitch? Cat 0 has a set of SAE standards that should guide you pretty well. Sleeve hitches are different. I've never seen an actual Cat 0 Brinley plow so I can't help much there. Sleeve hitches I can.
 
A lot of people get the sleeve hitch and three point hitch mixed up.
There is a big difference.
I have some three point hitch David Bradley plows and sleeve hitch Brinly plows I would sell
 
Correct me if I am wrong but it sounds to me as though you already own a Brinly Sleeve Hitch plough and you wish to make it into a CAT 0 three-point hitch model.

I can tell you from personal experience that Brinly is a company that will work hard to help you. They MAY have the engineering drawings for the 3 point hitches you mention and would be willing to look them up and tell you if there is a difference between certain measurements and what that difference is.

Just Google Brinly dot com and give them a call. They have some employees there who have been with the company for a long time and they know the product.

I realize that you are trying to get the geometry right but.....the standard CAT 0 hitch has a lot of adjustment in it and the better ploughs also have a screw adjustment to set the depth. Hopefully, some of the guys who attend ploughing matches will chime in here on this very issue because I think that you may be concerned over something that does not matter near as much as you imagine.
 
Been there and done what you are trying to do. Set the left side of the tractor up on blocks of the same height you wish plow. 6" would be a good average. Then find the center line of the tractor and chalk line a centerline on the floor extending back at least 3-4' behind the tractor. Then from the inside of the Right rear tire measure over 10" (with of cut) However far that mark is from center extend another chalk line mark back 3-4" from the rear of the tractor. Then place the plow behind the tractor with the landside on your chalked line using it also to get the plow straight for and aft. Level the plow using the top of the land side as a reference. Then plumb it sideways. it should not lean like the tractor but be straight up and down. Lower the hitch all the way down then raise it 1-2". Then place hitch angle adjustment in the middle of the range, middle of the range. Top link needs to have adjustment either way. Now you are ready to connect the plow to the tractor hitch, do what you have to do to make that happen.
When your ready to try the plow you need plenty of weight on the tractor and the plows work best with 50 lbs or so hung on them unless the ground is extremely mellow.
 
Sounds like some pictures are in order to more fully explain my question . . .

I have everything in the parts diagram except for the Item "20 or 26". The part number for #20 indicates it is for the PP-1200 while #26 is for the PP-1210. I thought maybe this was either a category 0 or 1 frame option but the draw pins (items 2 and 3) don't suggest that; here a third model, PP-1230, is referenced. Virtually all the pictures I have seen of these plows have a frame like what is shown in this diagram.

I have also found pictures of frames like is shown in the photograph that are different than what is in the parts listing. Notice the position of the cross tube relative to the pin holes. Is the the PP-1210 frame?
a176607.jpg

a176608.jpg
 
Your suggestion of going directly to Brinly is a good one since they are still in business. I can find enough pictures to make parts nearly the same as the originals but it would be worth asking if drawings would be available.
 
As far as I know, Brinly specialized in making Sleeve Hitch and CAT 0 tools. I am not aware of them making any CAT 1 items.

It is readily apparent that the 1200 and 1210 are both 12 inch 3 point hitch models and that the drawing covers both. Like you, I cannot understand why two models were offered unless the 1210 was a slightly later version of the 1200 with a minor change to the mast assembly. I also see a reference to a PP 1230 plough at item 3.

Yes... Brinly is still going strong after more than 175 years. There was a huge article in Lawn and Garden Tractor Magazine a few months back to celebrate their birthday.

Your best shot at clearing up questions regarding the differences between the 1200, 1210 and 1230 is to speak with Brinly directly. And if you do clear it up, then please post what you learned in this thread. I would like to add that information to the Technical Library on my Colt, Case and Ingersoll forum known as hydriv.ca
 
Brinly-Hardy Co.
3230 Industrial Parkway
Jeffersonville In 47130-9632

1-877-728-8224
just noticed you have
an old address on parts
page they moved across the river
 


That's a nice looking little plow. I've done quite a lot of plowing with Brinly plows over the years.I've never had one with a land wheel. I've also never been able to use the rolling coulter with one either, at least not use it and roll the turf over without running the axle into the ground.
 
I kept this moldboard plow off a Viking garden tractor that I bought in 1960. I bought a Wards
tractor in 1971 and it has a sleeve hitch and the only way I could it to plow was to fabricate a bracket very similar to the handles on the Viking.

I made a template of the handles and bent the metal at the same angles. Had to make a drawbar
for the depth lever too. I drilled and tapped 4
3/8 bolt holes on the sleeve hitch for mounting the frame. That was a pain so I made another bracket so I could just use one pin for mounting the frame. It plows very good using the tractor's hydraulics for raising and lowering. Hal
PS: I paid $15.00 for the Viking tractor and the implements.
a176760.jpg

a176761.jpg
 
I e-mailed Brinly and they provided me with some parts listing scans that shed more light on this question. From what I can tell the "high hitch/low crossbar" version of the plow frame is the PP-1240 variant which was designed for the tall Power King tractors. The pins were in the lower holes for the 16" wheeled tractors and in the upper holes for 24" wheels. Also, for the 24" setup there were bolt-in extension plates that raised the center link point. From the information they provided I didn't learn what the 1210 or 1230 variants are but since I am planning to use the plow on a Power King 2418 I have what I need to replicate the PP-1240 version. Thanks to all for their help.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top