tecumseh 5 hp need magneto

JIM MALL

Member
IGOT A 5 HP ROPER WOOD SPLITTER WITH TECUMSEH ENGINE.I AM LOOKING FOR A MAGNETO FOR IT.ALL THE SITES WENT TO DONT HAVE ONE.THE ONLY NUMBERS I CAN FIND ARE HH60 EXE-18416 ON THE SHROUD NO OTHER NUMBERS.NEED HELP FINDING ONE.NEED TO SPLIT WOOD. JIM
 
The magneto coil for your engine carried Tecumseh part #30560.

These are readily available from the aftermarket through the 'net or local small-engine shops.

Ignition points were part #30547, and the condenser was part #30548A.
 
If that is the magneto under the flywheel, do not remove the magneto frame unless its impossible to install the new coil while its on the engine. you will loose the air gap setting for the pole legs if you do.

That gap was originally set using a cut-away flywheel and I have no idea where you could get one now.
 
I removed a 5 hp vertical shaft tecumseh off a crapsman want a be DR string trimmer. It was too hard to start. I replaced Techumseh with a briggs engine. I still have the engine. If you measure the diameter of your flywheel and tell me if the mag is in or outside the flywheel, I will see what I have. I think my mag is external. The kind that doesn't use points and condensor. My flywheel was an iron flywheel. Good chance it might work.

I've left my email open, so it would be better if you could send me a pic.
George
 
I respectfully disagree with your statements.

The air gap is a fixed distance, and does not change if the magneto assy is removed & reinstalled from the engine.

The slotted holes in the magneto frame allow the ignition timing to be changed, so it is important to try to reinstall the magneto where it was originally set. ....Usually, the clamping bolts leave marks on the magneto frame, so if the frame is reset to this position, all will be well.
 
according to the manufacturer of that engine, if you remove the complete magneto assemblty, it DOES have to be retimed, and the way to do that is, according to the Tesumseh service manual, is with a dial indicator stuck in the plug hole, with an offset arm, you set the points to open at a certain distance from TDC, this can also be accomplised by removing the head and using a straigh edge and a feeler gauge, measuring before TDC. you move the points only to set the point gap, you can move the magneto to set timing of the engine.
 

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