more info on 2284 cub starting issues

ok so I took it all apart today and here is what I have found I have power to the key switch from battery..no indicator lights on dash and nothing coming out of the switch..when I do a continuity test on switch it shows two posts tied at 1st position and one tied at second or run position..when testing with connector hooked to switch I get no 12v across these 2 terminals..so its is either shorting out or there is a problem elsewhere I looked up the wiring dia as joe suggested and have to admit im not much on reading them and mine has a cpl wires in the key switch connector that the diagram doesn't show..i also have a little square box that says bosch on the side of it that I don't recognize in the schematics... will be glad to email more specifics if anyone wants to try to help with this..im at [email protected] for everyones advice and help

Here's what I get from looking at the wiring diagram, IF this is the right diagram!

If your switch is labeled, here we go...

Terminal M= Yellow wire, the engine kill wire, should have continuity to terminal G when the switch is in the off position.

Terminal G= Goes to chassis ground

Terminal B= Black wire coming from the battery. Should feed 12v to the ign switch.

Terminal L= Blue wire, power to the lights. Will be hot with the switch on (May have a separate position depending on how many positions the switch has. Don't worry about it now, just a light circuit.)

Terminal R= Red and white wire, power feed to everything that is hot with the ignition on.

Terminal S= Red and black wire, power to the starter solenoid, hot when the switch is held in start position.

To test, check everything except M and G with a test light and all terminals connected to the switch. This way you are actually "load testing" the switch. (A bad switch may not show up with an ohm meter, this way it is under a real world load.)

To test M and G, disconnect the yellow wire from M. With the switch off, use the ohm meter, terminal M should show continuity to ground. With the switch on, terminal M should not show continuity to ground.

Note that this is only a test for the ignition switch itself. Once the power leaves the switch, it goes through all the safety switches, relays and mystery boxes! But, it's a starting point.

Let us know!

thanks for breaking it down the switch is not labeled and it doesn't follow the diagram as to where the terminals are in the schematic so that makes it more of a challenge..i cant check as you said without taking the wires out of the connector (is this possible?)..the only wire not in the connector is the ground wire.. but I got to thinking what if I checked each wire in the connector for ground..are they supposed to be open with all the safety switches in place to start?..that way if I find a ground in one of them I could trace it back to see where it was failing at?..i did try continuity test thru the wires from the key switch connector to the connector by the starter and they were good and I also from the pos on battery with a remote starter switch was able to turn engine over thru the connector at the key switch side so that all seems to work...will get into it more tomorrow and let you know..i do appreciate the help and know one of you could diagnose in in a few minutes If here but that's not the case so again thanks for you patience and help

You don't want to take the wires out to test them, you want to test with them in place, under load, just as they are in use.

Should be able to probe the plug with a test light, or reach the back side of the plug, or as a last resort pierce the insulation with the test light.

Even with the colors different and lack of terminal labels, the function will be basically the same, one terminal fed hot from the battery, one or two terminals hot in the on position, one hot when in the start position, and the mag to ground kill circuit.

This might not be politically correct, but to aid in tracing circuits.
The probe on most test lights & volt/ohm meters is too big. Swipe a safety pin from the sewing basket or first aid kit when SWMBO isn't looking. Solder a short piece of wire to the loop, with a clip in the other end. The point of the pin is small enuff so it doesn't damage any strands in the wire, & the hole is small enuff to be almost self-sealing.
Do the tests with all plugs in place, & probe the wires an inch or 2 from the plug. Sometimes through vibration/fatigue, or a bad crimp, the wire can fail at the connector without showing on the insulation.
HTH
Willie

Good idea! Thanks.

ok guys heres the run down..tractor is running and operating now...had problems with battery cable to connector..fuse holder...fuse and pto switch..so lots of things that made it tough to trace..you guys were right on about using test light instead of meter..when I would try the light it would go out if any load at all was placed at the keyswitch..traced that back to fuseholder...and then when I removed the battery to get at all the wiring that's when the cable detached itself from the connector..repaired that and then I would have power at both sides of fuse holder but when load applied bat side still showed good and other side dead..fuse still shows good in the little window and continuity with meter...replaced it... worked on holder put it all together and it started and ran with no issues other than a wobbly pully on right hand spindle and pto switch doesn't stay locked on..so thanks so much for the advice and help it has been a journey but am prepared for the next problems as they are mechanical and im good to go there...where do you guys get your switches and stuff parts depot or ebay or dealer?...thanks again