tecushe engine eratic spark

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have spark at low speed when turning over ,when starter gets up to speed spark disapears then as it slowes down it comes back????????????

Model # HH140 160016

Any Ideas????? Thanks.
 
According to my microfice cards for your spec# eng same has solid state ign in the form of a large cast aluminum ign module mounted on block over flywheel,several things can cause a problem with this system.

1-check that plug lead insulation isn't dryed out & cracked or have carbon tracks in insulation where it exits flywheel cover or wire lays against block/head.

2-You'll find 2 trigger pins on rear edge of flywheel,check that air gap .010" between LONG pin & pickup on ign module.

3-The ign module is powered by a seperate winding by alt stator,while it's rare to have a problem with stator winding for module check resistance of winding.On the 10A stator assembly(most common)if resistance below 400 ohms then alt stator bad & must be replaced,if over 400 ohms then ign module bad(if air gap correct).On the 20A alt stator the resistance should be 115-171 ohms,if below that replace alt stator,if within spec replace ign module,you can tell the difference between 10A & 20A stators as follows,10A stator will be small diam with an aluminun cover/band around windings,20A will be large diam & open frame design(no cover over windings)there is no way to check ign module except by replacing same with a known good used module/new module,these modules are EXPENSIVE,used units on ebay start at $150 & keep going,new $250 plus.Disconnect lead to ign module & read resistance between lead/block on either style stator to check.

As far as your previous question on dipstick my microfice card shows 5 different dipstick/tube assemblies depending on spec# of eng,you're probably better off going to ebay & searching tecumseh hh dipstick & get a complete dipstick/tube assembly or plug/stick whatever the case may be.The HH100-140 eng all share the same block so dipstick assembly will work on any of the three.
 
This from the archives.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=gardent&th=108641

There are more schemes on dealing with your ign problems. Do a search.
 
After checking coil air gap & plug lead,BEFORE doing any stator checking unplug 3 prong connector from stator that has stator leads & ign kill lead from tractor wiring harness,crank eng & check spark,if you now have full spark all the time then problem may be rectifer/regulator,if diode(s) in regulator bad this will allow DC voltage from battery to flow into alt stator killing AC voltage needed to power ign module.
 
So I have unhooked harnes and still no spark at higher speed I can get the egine to start and run at idle as soon as you give it gas it stops running. I have unhooked the ign. switch and bypassed, no change. When I unhook the single wire to moduale there is no spark at all. tried diff. plug, no change. cleaned and checked stater checked for broken wires only thing I can think of now is that something is wired wrong? When I do get spark it is bright blue and will jump 1/2 inch gap so makes no sense to me. am leaning toward the modual think I will see if somebody has one I can try before I buy one. Any Thoughts?
 
If both trigger pins present in flywheel & eng does fire/run,check flywheel key same may be Z bent/sheared changeing ign timing.You shouldn't get any spark with stator lead disconnected from ign module,this is normal.
 

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