Bolens 1050 with 186-02 rottotiller

ihcase446

New User
I just bought a Bolens 1050 w/deck/blower & tiller I think I need A lift spring to help lift the tiller it takes both hands and braced foot to lift it. can someone give me an idea as to dia., length, coil crosssection, end type so-on-soforth I will be going back to shed to look for it
Rich
 
I had a tiller for my Wards tractor and I returned it as it was very heavy to man handle. I now use Troy Bilt tillers. Hal
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I have an a Bolens 1050 and the worm gear rototiller that goes with it in my dad's barn. Mine didn't have a helper spring and didn't need one. The lift handle has extra linkage that gives extra leverage (if yours is all there). I didn't care for the way the rototiller worked, I thought it turned too slow and in sod pushes the tractor. Would work better if the tines turned opposite of the forward motion of the tractor I think.
 
I've never seen a tube frame Bolens with 'extra linkage' for the lift.

Bolens did offer a "Spring Assist Kit" for the lift which was supposed to help with lifting heavy attachments like the tiller and snowcaster. I've never actually seen one of these so can't help with spring sizing, etc. I do have a .pdf of the Assembly Instructions for that kit which I'll attach. It should at least give you an idea of what Bolens did even if it doesn't give the spring size.

They also had a "Hydraulic Lift Kit" accessory for the gear driven tube frames.

I used my G10 with a round back tiller exactly ONE time before searching for one of the Hydraulic Kits. I too found that it took both hands and a planted foot to raise that rascal.

Bolens offered two different style of tillers for the tube frames. A 'round back' and a 'flat/square back'. The round back was a lighter duty one and Bolens stated in their literature that it was not for use in virgin ground. The square back tiller did not have that limitation.

When you use a tiller on a tube frame it's best to have filled tires plus wheel weights. It's also a good idea to make multiple passed going a bit deeper with each pass. IF you try tilling at the full depth on the first pass, you WILL have a rough time of it.


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I took a picture of what I considered "extra linkage" at the bottom of the lift lever. The rototiller bar attaches to the linkage at the left. Seemed to me to give extra leverage rather than being attached directly to the lift lever (also if the tiller lift bar was hooked directly you'd have to push the lift lever forward to lift, this way you pull back to lift). I haven't used the tiller for decades but don't remember having a hard time lifting it.
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No, that is not correct!

The bar from the rototiller goes to the pin on the lowest part of the lift lever, which is below the footrest.

Since the rototiller attaches below the pivot point of the lift handle, the tiller raises as you pull the lift handle rearward.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:01 06/08/14) I took a picture of what I considered "extra linkage" at the bottom of the lift lever. The rototiller bar attaches to the linkage at the left. Seemed to me to give extra leverage rather than being attached directly to the lift lever (also if the tiller lift bar was hooked directly you'd have to push the lift lever forward to lift, this way you pull back to lift). I haven't used the tiller for decades but don't remember having a hard time lifting it.

That's the linkage that lifts the mower deck. That should come off when you are using other attachments.
 

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