Kohler k-181 break-in

bigbore1934

New User
Just got my engine back from the machine shop,bored 10 over,crank turned 10 under,valves ground.
My question is what is a good break-in procedure?
I have looked this up online only to be REALLY confused!
The only thing the machine shop said was to used non-detergent until the first oil change.
I would think varing loads,and no idling,while keeping up the operating temp. would work but for how long?

Engine is in a 1975 wheel horse B-80 K-181s and I really miss mowing with it!My "loaner" MTD won"t take the punishment my WH can!!!
 
Kohler themselves state that oil should be changed every 25 hours of use MAX and more often if harsh conditions are present.

If I were you, I would use the non-detergent oil for about 5 hours and then dump it while it is still warm. From that point onward, go with STRAIGHT GRADE 30 weight detergent based oil and stick to the 25 hour oil change interval.

Installing an hour meter on your tractor will help you with that routine.

It really isn't fair to compare an MTD lawn tractor to a quality garden tractor such as a wheel horse. The Kohler K's are torque monsters compared to a vertical shaft B&S I/C engine. However, I fully understand your sentiment. :LOL
 
In agree with 5 hr brake in. But every Kohler I have bought new said 10w40. These all had oil pumps and filters, I do not know about your model. Btw use a name brand oil, I don t care what brand, just not some cheap store brand oil. BTDT did not work well.
 
Did they say why the Non-Detergent oil?

I have pulled down engines run on non-detergent oil and anything that wore off any moving parts was still right there in the oil pan.

If it was me, I would break it in on Kohler, Briggs, or Kawasaki 30 wt. oil. (with the detergent in it.) But since it is you, break it in on whatever oil you plan to run in it.

Run it like you are going to use it. Baby it too much and it has a propensity to be an oil hog.

Change the break-in oil at about 5 hrs. Then the manufacturer"s specified interval after that.
 
My understanding:
Kohlers are only supposed to have 10w30 oil. They are very finicky. The parts guy almost freaked out on me when I asked if SAE 30 was ok.

If it has an oil filter, use detergent oil. If no oil filter, use non detergent oil.
 
Thanks guy!I normally rum 30w Quaker State (detergent)oil in it.
I don"t know why he recommended ND oil,I think I will run a quart through it the first time,then go back to the Q-S oil I use(I have gotten lots of hours out of small engines with it)
LOL,that MTD is a 2003 18 hp 42 inch cut,won"t hold a candle to my 1975 8hp WH as far as holding up long term!They don"t make them like they used too!
 
(quoted from post at 17:35:33 04/14/14) Just got my engine back from the machine shop,bored 10 over,crank turned 10 under,valves ground.
My question is what is a good break-in procedure?
I have looked this up online only to be REALLY confused!
The only thing the machine shop said was to used non-detergent until the first oil change.
I would think varing loads,and no idling,while keeping up the operating temp. would work but for how long?

Engine is in a 1975 wheel horse B-80 K-181s and I really miss mowing with it!My "loaner" MTD won"t take the punishment my WH can!!!
I have professionally rebuilt hundreds of small engines. With every engine I rebuild, I suggest that they use an oil similar to Chevron Dello 400 30# and change the oil after about 5-10 hours the first time. After that, every 25-30 hours of operation. You are correct in varying the engine load.
The MAIN thing is to not overheat the engine.
 
Bigbore,
I have read all of the other replies and I disagree with several of them.

What these well-meaning members probably do not understand is that your engine is a Kohler K, not a CH or Command Pro. Those have pressurized lubrication and a full-flow oil filter. Their lubrication needs are different than that of the splash-lubed K engine that has the valves in the block.

Do not take my word. Go to Kohler.com and look up the K-series engines. Kohler has never changed their recommendation that straight grade 30W detergent oil be used when the ambient temperature is above freezing. Below freezing, the use of 10W30 is suggested but with a closer eye on the dipstick due to a slight increase of oil consumption due to the lighter weight oil.

While it is true that sludge and other byproducts of combustion will coat the inside of an engine that uses non-detergent oil, this is not a concern when that usage is a mere 5 hours. Once you switch to detergent based 30 weight, anything left behind by the non-detergent oil will be emulsified by the detergent oil and flushed out with the next oil change. If you wish, change the oil again at 10 hours. It cannot hurt and the cost is minimal.

If you trust your machine shop, then you should abide by their instructions because they are the people guaranteeing their work.
 
Tom Arnold,thanks I think you hit the nail on the head!
I have always read that they used 30w in these,so that's what I use.
I have my answer now,thanks to everyone who replied!
 
Tom has it right about oils for the older engines. From the Kohler site:

10W-30 (Command Oil) is recommended for Command, Courage, Command PRO, Command PRO CS, Triad OHC, and Aegis engines for temperatures above freezing (32°F, 0°C). SAE-30 is an acceptable substitute if temperatures are above 50°F, 10°C. K-Series and Magnum engines should use SAE 30 (Magnum Oil) above freezing. 5W-20 or 5W-30 can be used in all engines when temperatures are below freezing. For more complete oil specifications refer to your owner"s manual. For optimum performance, Kohler"s special blend oils are available from your KOHLER dealer.

Synthetic oils meeting the classifications listed in the owner"s manual may be used, however oil changes still need to be performed at the recommended intervals. To allow the piston rings to seat properly, Kohler recommends operating a new or rebuilt engine for at least 50 hours on standard oil before switching to the synthetic oil.

In my (slightly) opinionated opinion, dirty contaminated oil of the correct type is worse for your engine than the wrong type but clean oil. My experience working on others small engines is most worry lots about using the right oil and very little about keeping it changed at 25 hours. Oh they say they change it, but the insides of their engines say different,,,
 
Given how little cost we are talking about I'd put 30W non-detergent in it (or 30W detergent - what ever is handy) but I'd only run it for 15-20 minutes to get it to operating temp and immediately drain it while its good and hot then put a quality 30W detergent oil in it and then run it the 5 hours and drain it again.

A guy I know that has been rebuilding engines for 30-40 years taught me that. He was also in charge of the new Cadet sales when the local IH dealer sold them. He would do the same with new engines and rebuilds. With a fresh engine/rebuild he'd run it up to operating temp and then drain the oil to make sure something wasn't wearing wrong (excessive metal in the oil). He'd then replace the oil and send it home with the owner with the instruction on the 5 hour break in. He knows half the owners never changed the oil at 5 hours. He always thought getting that metal out of the oil right away helped the engine last longer.

The first few minutes of run time will put most of the break in wear on the new parts meshing togather for the first time. After that you are splashing the metal and oil around in the engine for several hours. I'd also check the head bolts a few times in that first 5 hours too.
 
Non detergent oil is recomended for the splash lube engine becuase unlike detergent oil it won"t have finest grit suspended in it to increase wear on bearings- especially rod bearings. Lots of the crud will fall to bottom of oil pan and stay as semi liquid mud until oil change. Ball bearings happy with splash of oil, but if they get valve polishing compound in the oil or its equivalent, they will wear faster. Piston to cylinder wear is same situation- detergent oil with fine suspension will have greater wear. First run in with non detergent and then frequent oil change to flush initial wear in crud will get longer life. W30 detergent at 25 hours or less after breakin non detergent is factory recommended- may as well do what design engineer said. ALTHOUGH 15-40 diesel spec in summer does seem to work in many small engines and motorcycles and is often used in garden tractors by people with 15-40 used in large tractors and older trucks, cars, /2 BMWs. RN
 

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