kohler k241

ACSam · Apr 13, 2014

I'm working on a portable welder that has a kohler K241P, spec# 46428d serial# 4348537. It will start and run but sometimes sputter and die. I put my spark tester on and started right up. The spark is sometimes hit and miss and on acceleration it will die(lose spark).
I have replaced the points and condensor, the coil under the flywheel, new spark plug and plug wire. I disabled the kill switch. I have the same problem. No change at all.
I have heard about magnets in the flywheel getting weak but have never experienced it.
My customer says his father bought this welder new in 1972 and has been used quite a bit on the farm but always cared for. It looks good.
Sorry for the long post but I am at a loss on what to do. Can anyone help with this.

rrobert · Apr 13, 2014

Not sure.

To test the magnets, see how well a screwdriver will stick to the magnet.

Check the plunger for the points to make sure it isn't sticking.

To rule out the coil, I would use an auto coil wired thru 12v and to points to see if it stays running. Not sure how available the magneto/coil under the flywheel is. If you switch to a regular coil, you have to add a power wire and use a mower coil.

A regular might post instructions on how to test he magnetto with an ohm meter.

joe csuti · Apr 13, 2014

Disconnect kill sw lead at points & see if that cures problem,kill lead may be shorting to frame/eng sheetmetal,also check that lead from points to mag coil not nicked/chaffed & shorting to block due to vibration.

Did you check ign timing after replaceing points?

Steve@Advance · Apr 13, 2014

You say you replaced the coil under the flywheel. Is this the ignition coil or the alternator coil?

If you haven't replaced the ignition coil, that would a good guess.

Also check the wire from the points to the coil. It may be shorted to ground or broken internally.

T.R.K. · Apr 14, 2014

Just some thoughts:

When you replaced the coil under the flywheel, Did you by chance remove the metal frame it is on? You may now have too much air gap between the coil and the magnet. It should be something like .010-.012. Problem is, the old procedure was to use a cut-away flywheel to check it.

Another thought is to check the insulation and routing of the high-voltage lead to the spark plug.

Another thought is to operate the engine with the points cover removed. There should be only a minimal spark between the points. Lots of blue sparks there means the condenser is not doing its job.

It is not unheard of to get a bad new coil or or condenser.

You did replace the spark plug, Didn't you?

ACSam · Apr 16, 2014

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I did have the metal plate off to clean and so I could get the new high tension lead and point wire in behind it. I was very careful putting it back, no pinching. I am running with the point cover off. New spark plug. It is the ignition module under the flywheel, not a battery ignition engine. What little wiring there is is all new oem. I did use a screw driver on the magnets and it felt ok.
Keep in mind, it is doing the exact same thing it was doing from the beginning. I am lost on this one.
Thanks to everyone for the help. Any other ideas are welcomed.
Thanks, Sam

joe csuti · Apr 16, 2014

One other thing you could check & it probably won't be fun,if this welder has seen hard use,check crank bearings same may be worn/sloppy & depending on eng speed & load on eng crank may be shifting changeing flywheel/coil air gap,also check crank end play,with speed/load magnets in flywheel may be moving out of line with coil legs.Check flywheel magnets,if there are tracks across magnets from coil legs this is usually a sign of worn crank bearings.

kohler k241

ACSam

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rrobert

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joe csuti

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Steve@Advance

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T.R.K.

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ACSam

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joe csuti

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