ID Kohler Engine

Just picked up a re-powered Wheel Horse 1067. Kohler single cylinder engine is bigger than frame and hangs off. Tag is gone. There are 9 head bolts, and starter generator. Any tricks to ID without pulling head? Thanks! Joe Fabregas

Well, as I"m sure you know, some of the engines had the model # cast into the block on the PTO end, in the upper clutch mounting bolt area, K301, K321, etc..

I believe 9 head bolts would indicate K241, K301, or K321.

If you can measure the stroke with a straw or wire threaded though the sparkplug hole, K241 has a 2.875" stroke, K301 and K321 have a 3.25" stroke.

Sounds to me like you have a K-Series engine. Go to Kohler's website. Use the link below

Go to Section 3 Page 5 and you will that there are three engines with the 9 bolt pattern. K241, K301 and K 321. They are 10, 12 and 14 HP respectively.

In order to tell the difference, you would need to remove the head and measure the bore and stroke so you can compare it to the chart in that manual.
Kohler Manual

Did not know about cast numbers. Can not find any unless it's behind the drive belt shroud. WH 1067 should have a K241 and this engine overhangs the frame where the original was bolted. Probably remain a mystery of life. Thanks!
joe fabregas

Thanks, Tom!

I'm NOT a WH guy, but could this be an instance where a Kohler engine with the narrow oil pan/block was replaced with the wider, flanged block and wide oil pan?

You could remove off the pulley on the PTO end of the crankshaft and look at the number cast into the block. If it says K301, it could still be a K241.

I seem to have poor success removing cast iron pulleys and wheel hubs. Better I let this dog sleep before I break something else. Thanks!
joe fabregas

I overhauled a Kohler Magnum 16 in a later Wheel horse. (416-8) It had bolts up from the bottom into the oil pan on the side that overlaped the frame.

Also, I don"t think 1067 is a good model number if you need chassis parts. There should be another tag under the seat.

Clean the pulley grooves and both ends thoroughly and check for set screws before applying the puller.

The Kohler 10 horse and 12 horse engines use the same crankshaft and rod..... which means the stroke is the same. What differs is the size of the bore.

Kohler decided to cast blocks with extra thick cylinder walls. Some blocks were then bored for the ten horse pistons while other blocks were bored for the 12 horse pistons. The only way to figure out the HP of your engine is to remove the head..... which is not a big deal....and should be done anyway periodically to remove carbon.... and measure the bore diameter.

As noted, Kohler also made many different oil pans to bolt up to their basic engine blocks. All engines came with a SPEC or Specification number noted on the ID tag. Manufacturers could SPEC which oil pan they wanted, which alternator coil amperage, whether they wanted a starter/generator or an alternator/starter and if the engine was to be on gasoline or propane.

If the oil pan obviously does not fit the frame of your tractor then it is equally obvious that the engine has an entirely different SPEC and it came from a completely different tractor. If it works, then it does not matter UNLESS..... you intend to conduct a proper restoration. At that point, you need to seek out an engine from the same model tractor as you have.



Checking the crank output side of the block for the identifying mark in the casting means nothing because many of the K-241 blocks became K-301 blocks by way of the boring bar at the time of manufacture.

I put a 14 horse Kohler on a 1968 Raider years ago and it fit perfect, looks too big, kinda hangs over the frame. I think some of the bolts went up from the bottom, no drilling that I can remember.

Does it look like this?

The tabs on the left side of the block bolt to the frame like they should. The block hangs off the frame on the right side, The rear bolt goes down through a second hole nearer the block and the tab is not used. The front bolt goes down through the tab and a piece of angle iron welded outside the frame. The inner hole appears to bolt the block to the sump. Have not climbed under yet to see. The plate under the riser says T1067 & ser# 378865, but Toro sez 378865 is no good for a serial. I had the seat up but do nor remember seeing any tag. It's raining out and dreary and I'm afraid of melting so I won't look today. Thanks! joe fabregas

Like the one on the left, but not as pretty. Thanks! joe fabregas