1967 Sears Suburban 10

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 1967 sears suburban 10 I am working on for an FFA project. I got it running but it will run then shut off when I try to drive it. Can anybody help?
 
It will run good. But as soon as I put it in gear it will start to die. Almost like it it not getting gas or something.
 
Justin, Does it run good and strong for 1 minute or 5 min.at an idle or does it take the throttle? Only stall when you put it in gear, or when you let the clutch out?
 
It run fine on idle. I can put the idle on high but as soon as I let go of the clutch it starts stalling. It will start to shut off then kick back on and so on until it eventually dies.
 
It runs fine on idle. I can turn it on high. But when i release the clutch it wil go like a foot then start to die. Then kick back and so on until it finally dies.
 
More than likely a carburetor adjustment, too lean and it's starving for gas - too rich and it's flooding it with the extra load on the engine....but it could be a bearing siezed in the trans. or rearend....
 
Locate & disconnect ign kill lead at eng,start tractor & try to drive,if tractor now drives then problem in electrical system on tractor,possible causes-bad ign sw,bad safety sw or a problem in tractor wiring(kill lead shorting to chassis/sheetmetal)

IF you still have problem with kill lead disconnected,reconnect kill lead,problem lies in fuel system,governor setup or a problem in/on eng itself or tractor.

Possible causes of problem-restriction in fuel supply,weak fuel pump,dirt in carb bowl & internal hi/low speed passages of carb body,float out of level,leaking float valve,misadjusted hi/low speed needle settings,governor needs static setting checked,points need to be set/gapped(if eng has)possible Z bent/sheared flywheel key changeing ign timing,eng low on compression due to cyl/ring wear or a leaking head gasket,worn valve guides,excessive mech drag in drive train/transaxle due to worn parts,if trans has ext disc brake,caliper frozen in applied position.
 
Hi Justin, try screwing the main jet out 1/8 turn at a time, its located at the bottom center of the carb float bowl, also the mag kill wire on that engine is located on the front lower side of the blower housing you can disconnect the wire there to check the electical wire to the switch. Is your engine a points version or a SSI version? Does it start right back up when it dies?
GB in MN
 
It will start up right after it shuts off. I only pull start it, I am still
working on the wiring. Could that be causing the problem?
 
Try enriching the high speed mixture by screening the main jet out turn it about 1/8 of a turn at a time so you don't go to far. Have you tried pulling the choke out some as you advance the throttle. if you do that and it runs better than its a lean mixture.
GB in MN
 
Justin, if you do not have one already, purchase a Tecumseh service manual that covers the older model engines. Although this engine probably says Craftsman on it, it was built by Tecumseh. Both www.psep.biz, and www.jackssmallengines.com have these manuals. They cover 8 thru 18hp with Craftsman cross reference. As someone else suggested there is a possibility that there may be a problem in the transmission that is overloading the engine when you release the clutch. BTW, is the park brake released?
 

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