A couple of comments.
Not knowing where you reside makes it difficult for me to comment on the asking prices because those will vary widely from area to area. With no photos or additional information about the two tractors you have found, all I can see is that the asking prices are higher than the average.
Both models are the Lo Profile Series which have the same 12 inch rear rubber found on most other garden tractors. I really wish that you could find a 444 locally that you could see and try out. I think that once you get a chance to become acquainted with a High Wheel Case, you won't want anything else. Both the 200 and 400 Series tractors are very capable GT's and they are nearly identical when it comes to the parts used to build them. However, the High Wheel models have an extra 4 inches of ground clearance which comes in very handy at times and the ride is noticeably better.
The 222 has a 12 HP Kohler K engine and the 3014 will have either a 14 HP Kohler Magnum or a 14 HP Briggs Vanguard engine. The 3014 is a 1996. The newest that the 222 can be is 1988.
I am having a hard time buying into the idea that the 222 has 600 hours on it since Case never put hour meters on any of their models. Ingersoll didn't do so until about 1986 so perhaps the 222 is actually a mid to late 80's model. A tractor would have to lead a very sheltered life in order to have a mere 600 hours on it after 25 years. The average use is 50 hours per year and therefore 1200 hours would be expected. The 3014 is 17 years old and logically should have about 800 to 900 hours on it.
I am always leery of hour meters with low readings because there is no guarantee that the hour meter was not disconnected or replaced at some point. One must disregard the hour meter reading and instead, rely upon what your eyes and gut tells you during a slow and careful inspection of the tractor.
If you want to have a 3 point hitch at some point, then the 3014 is the tractor to choose. Case never made a 3 point for the 200 Series BUT.... the later hitch that was designed to be used on the 3000/4000/6000 models will work on a 200. Expect to pay $500.00 or more to buy that hitch as a used, separate item. This is why it is wiser to seek out a used tractor that already has a hitch on it because you often save money by doing so.
I think that you definitely should go and see those two tractors and test drive them, if only for the experience. Directly below the seat is a shift lever that changes the trans-axle from Low Range to High Range. There is Neutral in the mid-point and you often have to rock the tractor a bit to get the straight-cut gears to mesh. Drive the tractor in both ranges with the engine at full throttle so that you understand the difference in ground speeds.
Rear tires almost never wear out but front tires do. So take a look at the tread on the fronts. If the fronts look new, then they have been changed and that casts doubt on the claim of 600 hours. Check how much free play is in the steering wheel. A 600 hour tractor should still have fairly tight steering. Does the steering pull to one side. Take your hands of the wheel while driving on smooth, flat, level ground and see if the tractor continues to go straight.
Look at the tie rod between the two front wheels and the drag link that connects the right front wheel to the steering gear. Are the perfectly straight or are they bent? Stand beside each front wheel and look straight down to the front axle. Does the kingpin look to be vertical or is it bent to the rear at the bottom? If so, then the front axle is bent due to the front wheel slamming into something solid.
Faded paint, surface rust and peeling decals all indicate that the tractor has been left outside instead of being garaged. Check the wiring harness. Has it been cut and spliced? Do you see repairs to it? Open the hood. How clean is the area ? Look under the tractor and see if the area around the steering gear and rear end are reasonably clean. Look for signs of paint overspray or parts of the tractor that look freshly painted compared to other areas adjacent.
The 222 will have the trusty mechanical PTO clutch. It is actuated by a lever on the left side of the dash tower. If it is adjusted properly, you should have to use a fair bit of pressure to push it to the over-center point where it snaps into full engagement. Make sure that the mower deck is mounted to the tractor so you can check it out along with the clutch. The deck should be fairly quiet. It should come to a stop quickly once the PTO lever is pulled all the way back. If the belt continues to turn, then the clutch needs adjustment and possibly repair.
If the deck seems noisy, then it may need all of the spindle bearings to be replaced. Not a big deal but certainly not something that either of these high priced tractors should exhibit.
The 3014 has an electric clutch that is actuated by a switch on the left side of the dash. These clutches are not repairable. When they fail, you throw them away and install a new one at about $300.00.
The 222 will discharge grass to the left and the 3014 discharges grass to the right. This is because the engines are mounted opposite to one another in those years.
Check the ID plate on the 222 and write down the serial number. Look for an aluminum plate on the dash tower at knee level. That number will reveal the year.
If you can take photos from all four sides of each tractor and send them to me, I can comment further.
Good luck with your search. Look upon it as a part of self-education.