Cub Cadet 1250 question

old

Well-known Member
Is there a disconnect on them for the rear end. I have this 1250 with hydrostatic drive and it runs ok but will not move and I was told it may have a disconnect for the rear end
 
Some Cub Cadets had relief valves that were automatic, some had a manual relief lever. It's hard to say which you have, since so many have been worked on and/or swapped in the last 30 years.

Since you replaced the hydro maybe you remember the two valves on the top of the pump. If they had little buttons in the center, then it requires the manual relief lever/linkage. If not, it should roll when pushed, not easily, but it should move.

If you have the manual valves but no lever/linkage it won't move. There is no rear end/differential release, just the hydraulic valves.
 
No buttons so automatic relief valves so guess that is not where the drive problem is
 
Rich, There was a dissconnect package available on the 1250, but I don't have the S# break. It would be a clutch located between the cooling fan (rear of tractor) and the double flex discs(S# 622952 and above had double rear drive discs).
The left brake/hydro return petal adjustment is different for the dissconnect package than without it. If you determine that you have the dissconnect package , I can scan and send you the page on adjusting that petal, but I don't think that is your problem.
 
Here is a pic similar to both styls.

The one on the left looks like an automatic valve although it is actually the same as the one on right with button depressed.

If you have the buttons try bumping lightly with a small hammer to see if they maybe stuck.

I have a friend in SC that may have some for the quiet lines .. $50.00 each.


You don't suppose the cleaner you used was not "O" ring friendly ?

I will get heck for this but dextron II will work in place of the recommended Hy Tran.
Untitled URL Link
 
old:

Quite often, there is a "spirol pin" that secures the Coupler to the Hydro Input Shaft. When this breaks, the drive shaft spins, but the Hydro Input Shaft does not. You have to look real close to see if this is happening. The spirol pin (aka: spring pin) is 1/4" x 1-1/2". Simply remove whats left of the old pin and tap in the new one.
 
No, the 1250 did not have a dump lever for the hydro. The hole for the missing lever should be punched in the tin under one of the fenders, behind the tire. If you would like a manual for it, you can have it.
We haven't had a Quiet-Line tractor in years. Great lawnmowers though, fairly easy to work on.

Mike
 
Ya a manual might help me figure out why it will not move. My e-mail is open so we can talk about it
 
All that was removed and then put back in since I have it apart from the engine back and had the whole rear end out and took the flex couplers apart and the shaft apart
 
OK, I'm confused. When you say "it won't move", does that mean when running it won't move under it's own power OR, that it won't roll when pushing.
My response about relief valves was to a 'wont roll' complaint primarily. But manual valves with the buttons depressed will result in a 'no drive' condition.

The responses about the roll pin were addressing a won't move under its' own power issue.

Unconfuse me please.
 
It can be pushed when the engine is not running but hard to do so which I believe is normal.
With the engine running it will not move under its own power forward or backwards. I know it is not a roll pin problem since I can see the hyd pump I just put on spinning
 
Yep understand the hay thing. I have hay down right now and the plan is to bale it tomorrow. This time of year it seems to take a day or 2 more for it to dry out enough to bale.
 

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