Cub Cadet RZT50 - bad PTO clutch?

First PTO switch went bad, replaced. Then starter key switch went bad, replaced. Now I mowed for an hour yesterday and PTO cut off by itself. Tested PTO switch and no continuity in connections 1, 4. 4 runs to PTO clutch, so am I right in assuming the clutch is bad and causing these switches to short?

Dukester
RZT wiring

I would need to see it hands on to understand the wiring. There are several safety switches combined into the switch.
First, check the 20A fuse. Is the battery charging correctly? 12-14v when engine running. You need mostly 12v to the PTO clutch or it will not stick.

You should have 12V to PTO switch 1(and R on ignition switch) when key is on. You should have 12 v to PTO sw 4 when PTO switch is switched on. If the power gets to the PTO clutch depends if the LH and RH reverse are allowing 12v to pass thru.

Closely check the terminals on the ignition switch and pto switch for corrosion.

I think PTO switch 3 & 6 go to a light bulb on dash and stop engine from cranking if the switch is in the on position..
I think PTO switch 2 & 5 shut down engine if safety switches are not triggerred.

I am not certain without looking at machine but hope that helps. You need to check voltage with a meter, not continuity. Cheap multimeters at Lowes etc for about $10.

Yes to all of the above. I tested resistance on the clutch as according to this page:

I measured 2.10 ohms, which is below their spec of 2.40 on that page, so, ..replace?
Electric Clutches

And I'm already bypassing safety switches so I know it is not those.

Expensive guess but could be bad clutch per website.

Try the draw test to see what results are.


Good luck with it.

Ok, good idea. Need to get new PTO switch first...!

This is a dumb question but how to test the amp draw on the PTO clutch do I disconnect the belts first and test it with the engine running?
Thanks

The first thing you'll need is a vom/inline or clamp on ammeter capable of reading a min of 5A DC,many low cost vom's only measure 200-500ma.

To check current draw(amps)on clutch coil you don't have to disconnect belts & if you get lucky you won't have to cut into wiring or use temp jumper wires.

Sit on mower as you normally would when starting same,turn ign sw to on/run position,DO NOT start eng,turn on pto sw,if clutch operates when eng not running turn ign sw & pto sw to OFF position,disconnect pos(+)cable from battery & connect vom set at highest current range(amps)or inline ammeter between battery cable & pos(+) terminal on battery,sit on mower & turn ign sw to on/run position & note amp reading on meter if any,turn on pto sw & note reading on meter,if you had an amp reading before turning on pto sw,subtract this off reading after turning on pto sw,the difference will give you current draw of clutch coil,if you have a clamp on ammeter just clamp meter around pos(+)battery cable & check current draw readings.When checking current(amps)a vom or inline ammeter ALWAYS GOES IN SERIES with load,NOT across same as you would do when checking voltage,otherwise you'll blow out internal fuse/burn out meter,most clutch coils draw 3.5A-4A depending on mfg & voltage avail at coil,unless you have service manual for mower this would be my best guess unless someone else has a better figure.

Before replacing pto sw CAREFULLY check connector for sw,if contacts in same blue/blue black,connector body discolored or wires discolored from heat,replace connector with a new connector from mfg or use individual stakon quick disconnect lugs in place of connector otherwise you'll be replacing pto sw in a short time due to sw being damage by heat being generated because of a bad connector.Make a drawing of back side of pto sw & terminals that different color wires connect to BEFORE doing any work on wire connector for sw.

Thanks, our NAPA is out of PTO switches so I'm waiting on one of those before I can test the amp draw.

If you have wiring diag for mower & know which wire/color wire on connector for pto sw goes to pto coil,run a jumper wire from battery pos(+)terminal & connect ammeter between jumper & wire that goes to pto in connector for pto sw and measure current draw on coil,after that check with napa to see what contacts of new sw are rated at,many tractor mfg are useing cheap imported sw's with a 3-4A contact rateing,these sw's will not hold up mech/electrically in the long term,try & get an american made sw with a 5-10A contact rateing & same will probably outlast clutch/tractor,over the yrs deere,mtd & other mfg have had problems with imported sw's with contacts rated at/close to current draw of pto coil.

Understood, thanks..I wonder if my NAPA will know the rating though..they had a hard enough time just finding the part!

Normally the max voltage/current rateing is marked on the sw mounting bushing plate/sw body,however many times especially with xyz brand/imported sw's its not marked & you take your chances with after market or oem sw's.

This is a Delta series 6201 switch, says assembled in USA on plastic package. No ratings on switch itself just the Delta name and patent number.

Stay with the oem/aftermarket replacement sw.

After doing a goggle search for for delta 6201 switch the 6201 is a series sw used by many mower mfg,the same has several mod# within the 6201 class designated by a three digit number after 6201,which determines the number of terminals on sw,internal switching action of sw & style of knob,in addition the sw is a snap-in design,I assumed sw had a threaded bushing for mounting sw,also looking at several listings in search with the exception of going to delta website none list the voltage/amp rateing of sw.

Unless you have the electrical knowledge/skill to locate a similar style sw & rewire to operate as orig sw,go with the oem/aftermarket sw & replace when/if needed.