Keith A.

New User
Hi to all of you ,
I have an old 1975' ? Sears SS 16 Twin Lawn Tractor that has little to No Brakes or park brake ? Do you have any advice on how to repair and access the brake system and linkage ?
Any Ideas would be a great help !
Thank You , Keith
Model # 91725882
 
Keith, Good news, and not so good news. First, go to www.searspartsdirect.com. Your tractor is still listed and you can pull up a good diagram of the brake system. (Of course, you can look underneath the tractor and follow the linkage from the clutch/brake pedal back to the transaxle). Just taking a SWAG I would guess the brake band may be worn out, (or possibly just need adjustment) BUT, replacement brake bands are still listed. The not so good news is the darned things are $43.99! OUCH! Once you see how it is made, you may be able to come up with some other material that would work. Hope this helps a little. Lowell.
 
Hi Keith, here's some more good news / not so good news, you can get brake lining material from McMaster Carr the not so good is to remove and replace the brake band and lining you have to remove the transaxle from the tractor. But hopefully it can be adjusted and work some, there is an adjustment rod from the clutch / brake pedal to the brake, with a turnbuckle adjuster you'll need to gget under the tractor to do the adjustment.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=nc9qrh
 
MNGB, Thanks for the information. I know that many times you can find what you need if you just know where to look. I am making myself a note. I have heard of McMaster-Carr. It seems to be one of those places that "if we don't have it,then you don't need it" 'cause they sure have a lot of stuff.
 
Hi Keith this maybe helpfull
First does your tractor have a brake band, or does it have the disk
brake system.

Once we know that we can help you out farther. If it has a brake band,
is the brake lining still there or is it still good.

If it has a brake band, here is how I adjust mine. First I will go
through the adjustment for the brake, then the parking brake, then
the clutch.

Brake adjustment

1. first I push the brake pedal as far down as it will go, then tie
it there with a rope to the front axle so it holds it down while
making the adjustments.

2. Then with the tractor in neutral, try pushing the tractor, is it
moves then the brake needs adjusting.

3. under the tractor, in the middle of the break rod, there should be
what looks like a turnbuckle adjustment. it has a right hand tread
and a left hand tread, there should be a locking nut on one side or
the other, loosen it.

4. Now turn the adjustment so it makes the brake rod shorter, that
will put more pull on the brake ban, just turn it one turn at a time.

5. Now check to see if you can push the tractor, if you can't then
the adjustment was enough, tighten the lock nut back up, if the
tractor moved while pushing it then repeat step 4, until the tractor
cannot be pushed.

Parking brake adjustment



1. first I push the brake pedal as far down as it will go,then set
the parking brake lever.

2. Then with the tractor in neutral, try pushing the tractor, if it
moves then the brake needs adjusting.


3. Under the tractor, right by where the parking brake handle is
located there should be 2 nuts the are locked together, loosen them.
With the brake lever in the park position, tighten the nuts against
the brake mechanism so that they put added pull on the brake ban.

4. once again try pushing the tractor, if it moves those nuts need to
be adjusted again. If not then lock the 2 nuts together.

Clutch adjustment

1. first I push the brake pedal as far down as it will go, then tie
it there with a rope to the front axle so it holds it down while
making the adjustments.

2. With the tractor in NEUTRAL start the engine and see if the drive
belt is staying still or moving with the drive pulley on the engine,
it should be staying still at this point.

3. If the belt is staying still then there is no need for adjustment,
unless the belt is slipping while you are in gear and driving.

4. If the belt is moving with the drive pulley then adjustments need
to be made.

5. There are a couple of adjustments that can be done.

6. On the drive side of the tractor, right below the Dash, there
should be a slot, it has and idler pulley on the inside of the
tractor there.

7. with the brake/clutch pedal tied down at this point, you must
adjust that idler pulley so it makes the belt looser. then re-tighten
the idler.

8. with the tractor in NUETRAL restart the engine, see if the belt
still moves while the engine is running, if not it should be OK, if
it still still running repeat step 7

9. one of the most important part of the clutch system which gets
over looked is the belt guides on the drive pulley on the engine,
they have to be set so when the brake/clutch pedal is all the way
down, the the belt pushes against the guide on top of the drive
pulley. that guide has to be set so that the guide pushes the drive
belt out of the bottom of the drive pulley.

10. most important is that people forget that the engine is pulling
the belt from the bottom of the pulley, and the belt is running off
from the top of the pulley to the clutch pulley, which then put pull
on the belt to tighten it up to drive the trannys.

11. basically clutching and braking is just the opposite of the
engine driving the trans.

If you do all these adjustments, your tractor should work OK
 

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