Mower deck on John Deere 216

Old Iron

Member
The Operator's Manual for my JD 216 garden tractor doesn't cover the 47" mower deck.
I'm wanting to replace the blades, and would like to know if the spindles are "left hand" or "right hand" threads.
Thanks for any information you might have regarding blade removal for this mower deck.
 
An impact wrench makes that job go a lot better. They are not on that terribly tight, but it's hard to hold the spindles from turning and use a regular wrench on the nuts at the same time.
 
(quoted from post at 07:49:38 05/26/13) An impact wrench makes that job go a lot better. They are not on that terribly tight, but it's hard to hold the spindles from turning and use a regular wrench on the nuts at the same time.
That's what I have planned, but first I'm going to rig up something to raise the front of the 216 up high enough so I can work under the mower deck.
Figgered I use a come-along from a beam in the garage, down to the front of the 216, then crank away until the front of the tractor is about 24-30 inches in the air.
Hopefully that should give me enough room to remove the blades with my impact.
 
Whoa! The deck is pretty easy to take off. There's no need to try and take off the blades by jacking up the tractor. It takes longer to explain it than to do it.

First, loosen the belt tensioner on the front of the tractor. It's that t-handle thing. Second, release the pins and unfasten the arms that go up at an angle from the deck to the sides of the tractor frame. Third, release the draft plate from the front of the tractor frame. Then take the draft plate off the deck. Finally, pull the hairpins out of the lift links and take the lift links off the deck. Pull the belt off the pulley and slide the deck out from under the tractor.

Should be pictures in the Gallery section of the weekendfreedommachinesDOTcom website.
 
As a not too strong 77 year old mowing with parts of three 212,&214s, two 47" decks,for the last 15 years and keeping 5-6 acres subdued in Iowa generous rainfall let me offer some advice.
1. lofting the front of the tractor on some kind of ramp, allows a person laying on the ground with a 9/16" wrench to loosen the one bolt holding the blade, just align the wrench parallel to the blade you hold with a gloved hand, and unscrew. Others are right, it is a normal right hand thread.
2. When putting on the new or resharpened blades, be sure all three have trailing edge turn up pointing up! Lube the bolt with never seize and it will be easier the next time.
3. Steve is right, he has listed all the moves to remove the deck. Some more advice, tho. The deck has to be removed at least seasonally to access the belt gallery on the deck top. This arrangement causes grass to accumulate in the serpentine belt system and the deck SHOULD NEVER BE HOSED DOWN FROM THE TOP...the water collects in the gallery and rusts out the deck!
4. Removing the deck sideways from under the tractor as described by Steve, is best done with the tractor on a smooth concrete surface with at least 6 feet of clearance to one side or the other. The gage wheels do not slide easily sideways.
5 When reversing the deck installation, take care the the main drive belt is reeved through the pulley correctly and above all, watch the the belt keeper on the first set of bend pulleys is outside the belt path, don"t make the belt slide over the outside of this dingus or in a matter of a smokey few minutes you will need a new belt.
6. This old deck has a great capacity (by design)and gives good service. I know, I have double (lapped) mowed grass and weeds as tall as the tractor and the rototiller gear (super low) comes in handy when a real hay mower should have used.
 

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