JD 425 hydraulics

Dan50

Member
I'm pretty much ignorant as far as hydraulics go and I'm looking to hook up the front quick hitch to my 425. Just want to have it figured out before next winter as I bought a used snow plow for it. I need to hook up four couplers to the control valve. Mother Deere wants $30 a pop for the couplers. Am I going to be able to do this cheaper somehow?

Any ideas what size I will need on the couplers? When I take the four plugs off will there be a cascade of oil?

Thanks

 

First off you are pricing the couplers the wrong way. You need to be getting a whole goods bundle that has all four couplers in it. The kit number is BM20761 list price $54.57. This kit has: (4) couplers number AM115139 in it, (4) dust covers, (1) decal. This is a whole goods bundle which is much cheaper than buying it as a service part.

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You also are going to need a lock out valve. (#5) Part number AM118213 list price $113.56. This shuts off the deck lift cylinder so it is not moving when you lift the blade. You just remove the elbow that is on the back of your valve and the shut off valve replaces it. You then raise your deck lift all of the way. Then you shut the lock out valve. This way your deck linkage is locked up out of the way and also this keeps the cylinders from being in series. This causes a delay when you are using the one function. This valve is with the quick hitch attaching parts when bought new. There is no whole goods number just for this valve. Some times you can find them used on Ebay or your going to have to bite the bullet and buy it new.

Also the hose loop (key #2)Part # M96981 list $9.74, is handy to keep your hoses out of the steering/front axle. It goes under the motor mount bolt and sticks out under the left side screen. You could make something but it is less than $10 so how much time can you spend???

Also you may need to lube the spool on the control valve that is not being use by your deck. They get sticky because they are not used at all with just the mower. Look at the valve where the control linkage hooks and just spray it with some penetrating oil and work it back and forth. This one also has a float position if you push the lever all the way forward hard. You will use this all of the time with a snow blade.

The couplers are standard equipment on JD 445 and JD 455 garden tractors. So you can look at one of them to see how they go. If you have more questions email me and we can exchange phone numbers and I can walk you through it.
 
8) Wow, JD Seller, it appears that you may have a bit of experience in this area? LOL The parts counter guy at my local JD lawn and garden dealer should take a class from you!

Thanks for all of the great info, I can see where ordering the bundle of couplers will alone save a bundle of money. I kind of thought that I needed some way to shut off the hydraulics to the deck also, the guy that I bought it from said no. Looks like I'll need a lockout valve (wow-those aren't cheap!), I may have to check out ebay-I do have some time. For $10, the loop looks like a no-brainer though.

You mention the spool on the control valve. Currently, when I try and move the lower htdraulic lever on the dash, it doesn't move nearly as freely as the upper lever that controls the deck. I'm guessing that by lubing the spool, that may take care of that stiffness on the lever?

Once again, thanks for taking the time to post the parts breakdown and the outstanding info. This board offers a wealth of great information and I appreciate what folks like you do for us less experienced types!
 

Dan the lower lever( longer one) is the one that will be the lift on your snow blade. Like I said it has a float position when you push the lever forward. You will need to lube the spool where it goes into the control valve. It is on the inside of the frame. They can get really stuck. Especially on mowers where the guy washed them off a lot. The spool will get a little rusty. After you get it freed up just work it back and forth every now and then when you have the deck on. It will just make the hydraulic relief valve open for a moment. With it not running it will not even do that. It will keep the spool from getting sticky.

The top lever that currently lifts the deck will control the hydraulic angle of your blade. This is where you need the lock out valve. If you do not use it the deck cylinder will move first as it is under no load.
 
Excellent info from JDSeller. I suggest this alternative though:
http://www.aux-hyd.com/cart/upload/
I much prefer either the quarter turn valve or remote valve to the 'many' turn valve that JD provides.
I've bought from him and can attest to the quality of his stuff.
 
Ken that is a good alternative to the JD valve. I think it is funny that the lock out valve is cheaper than JD but the coupler kits is higher that OEM.

The after market coupler kit is $87.00 and the JD coupler kit through whole goods BM 20761 is $54.57
After market lock out valve.
 
JD Seller -I'm that guy that washes my tractor off a lot. That may explain why that spool is locked up.

Ken- Thanks for that catch on the lockout valve. You saved me some money too! Looks like I'll be going that way on the valve.

Along with a little welding and painting, this should make for a little project this summer.

Any ideas for an alternative for those pricey suitcase weights and bracket for the rear? Or should I just bite the bullet on that? Thanks guys.
 

Just fill the rear tires with washer fluid. You will get about 7-8 gallons in each wheel. Just take the tire off and break the top bead down and pour the washer fluid in. Also you can get wheel weights.

The advantage of weights in the wheels is that you trans-axle does not have to carry the additional weight on the axles and bearings.
 

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