Ken Ind

Member
I am trying to put duals on my 1450 CubCadet . Has anyone done this ? If so, how? I know I can get some carrige bolts long enough to attach. But, what do I use for a spacer. Any hlep would be great, Thnks Kenny.
 
Are they not available as a factory option? If not, you could cut steel pipe of the proper diameter and length and weld them together with straps of proper thickness to keep them from flexing, In other words make your own "spider". I know Sears used to have dual kits available for their Suburbans. Don't know if they are still available or how close they would come to fitting yours. Good luck.
 
If you have a garden tractor with 12" wheels M.E. Miller has a spacer rings and bolts for sale on Ebay for around $48.00 + shipping and handling.
 
I have no problem understanding the logic behind duals and triples on full size Ag tractors. Soil compaction is a big issue in farming today.

What I have never understood is the logic behind duals on a garden tractor unless you are attempting to build a Minnie Me model of a full size tractor.

You cannot successfully plough a garden with duals because they keep your right rear wheel out of the furrow where it belongs. Soil compaction in a garden isn't an issue, either. Would anyone care to enlighten me? LOL
 
I know that several manufacturers offered them as an option back in the 50's and 60's but I have to wonder about the reasoning behind it.

I can see the need for them if you are forced to mow grass cross-slope because they change the center of gravity. But are there other applications where duals would make life better? After all, you have to be conscious of those tires sticking out the sides of the tractor, all the time. From a mechanical aspect, duals put a lot of strain on the axle shaft/flange joint which is usually just welded together.

And once you start adding heavy counterweights to offset front mounted attachments, the strain is increased even more.
 
i have duals on my Cub 102, in which i used a piece of 12" HDPE (heavy duty poly ethelene pipe) i cut it 1-3/4" thick to fit in the wheel well rim which measures about 11-3/4" it worked good, i have a scrap piece of pipe that i cut it from.
then used 1/2" X 10" carriage bolt to mount them.
 
I found that some of the solid tires on tow motors are the right size to make spacers out of.( just burn the rubber off and use the steel).
 
The main reason I want to do this is, my Dad wanted to do this before he passed 2 yrs ago this weekend. So, I want to one of his last wishes and besides I think it will look cool and be some thing differant, Kenny.
 
If you are serious about this and don't mind spending a few bucks, there's NO need to re-invent the wheel... GOOGLE "cub cadet dual wheel spacers".
 
If it is something he wants to do, doesn't matter if you like it or find it logical. He can do what he likes. Cub used to recommend duals for their sand trap drag to minimize tire tracks.

As for plowing, when farmers around here still plowed, they only ran a dual on the left so the right would stay in the furrow.
 
Sprint,
Try reading my post again. I was not asking about the OP's motives for wanting to install duals. I was asking about the rationale behind adding duals and my 2nd post should have clarified my intent. If the OP wishes to add duals to his tractor, then that is his personal choice. It was not my intent to interfere with that.

Thanks for telling me about the sand trap drag. I did not know that golf courses routinely used garden tractors for this purpose. Does anyone else know of other reasons behind manufacturer's offering dual wheel kits?
 
Stability with certain attachments would be one good reason. I have a Haban Sickle Bar Mower, and when it was on my Bolens G10, it was pretty 'tippy' with the cutter bar down. With all that weight hanging out there, and a narrow track, it could get real interesting, on even a mild slope. I did ended up putting a wheel weight on the left rear which helped, but I was always a bit leery of it.

I later bought a Bolens 1256 that a PO had put wheel extensions on, which widened the track by about 1'. That makes all the difference in the world, and it handles just fine with the Sickle-Mo on it.

Another good reason would be flotation. I have what may be a one-of-a-kind Bolens 1886 that has a forklift attachment on it. The forklift is mounted with a sub-frame with the mast at the front, and a huge weight box on the rear for counter balance. I will be using it mostly on dirt/grass that does get a bit soft, and I may end up putting duals on it to keep it from sinking. The original owner always used it on hard surfaces, so that was not an issue for him. Of course the duals would also be helpful with stability for the rare occasion that I might have something heavy on it and the mast at full height. Another plus for duals on it would be I can fill all four tires with Rim Guard, which would allow me to use less weight in the weight box which would lessen the load on the rear axle.
 
For the curious; I didn't know about sand trap drags either, but in the 60's Sears offered a front end loader for the Suburban 12 tractors. A dual rear kit was almost necessary. The little loader worked great, but it was a bit much even for the Suburban. One of the techs I worked with bought one, he had duals, water in the tires, wheel weights and chains, but if you picked up a bucket full of sand or dirt, the rear end still got a little light. And all that weight caused some problems with the transaxle too. Sears also had a sickle bar mower, and as someone already mentioned, they would get a little "tipsy" if you weren't careful. I borrowed one from one of my co-workers, and sure could have used the extra stability of duals on it then.
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:30 03/20/13) I have no problem understanding the logic behind duals and triples on full size Ag tractors. Soil compaction is a big issue in farming today.

What I have never understood is the logic behind duals on a garden tractor unless you are attempting to build a Minnie Me model of a full size tractor.

You cannot successfully plough a garden with duals because they keep your right rear wheel out of the furrow where it belongs. Soil compaction in a garden isn't an issue, either. Would anyone care to enlighten me? LOL


My personal reasons are

#1 is looks, I just like the looks of them.

#2 is my trailers are parked where it gets pretty soft and can't get them out with a 2wd truck. The dual don't tear up the grass or make ruts as bad.

#3 traction, you get more traction when dragging heavy items.

#4 is stability when my kids drive them.




Randy
 
The cub cadet IMHO has the strongest transaxle of any in its class.

You have to remember it was originally for a tractor the farmall cub

If you do happen to bust something you can allways install a dodge dart axle. And I just can't see how you would bust that setup -- something for a vehicle weighing several thousand more and 10x + the HP

Dam near indestructible

Duals look cool And get the tractor lugs -- they look better and defiantly have more traction
 

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