Case 224 won't start

don v

Member
My Case 224 with the K321A engine has an ignition problem. If the starter is engaged there is no fire to the points or plug. When I release the starter then fire goes to the points and plug as long as the engine is still turning. I have replaced the coil, condenser, plug and points. Where do I go to from here?? Could it be in the ingition switch? Thanks
 
It does sound like the switch. "Start" position should still keep the mag disconnected from ground, just like when the switch is at "Run".

Does the "Mag" terminal short to ground when the key is turned to start?

If you replace it, make sure you get a magneto switch, not a battery ignition switch.

Ben W.
 
Sounds like it has the wrong kind of ignition switch. Is the tractor battery ignition, with points? It should be. If it is make sure that you get a switch that is for battery ignition and not magneto ignition.
A batter ignition switch provides fire to the coil and a magneto switch grounds out the mag.
 
Don,
The problem is in the ignition switch. You need to PROVE this to yourself before you throw more money at it. Do you have a multimeter with a DC voltage scale? If not, a simple test light will do.

Begin by removing the heavy gauge wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the starter and keep the end of that wire away from metal parts on the tractor. Then connect the black wire on the multimeter or one lead from the test light to the negative post of the battery.

Touch the other lead to the positive battery post to confirm that you are reading 12 volts on the multimeter or that the test light glows. Then put that lead onto the + terminal of the coil. Turn the key switch to ON and you should see the test lamp glow or read 12 volts on the meter. Now, without removing that lead, turn the key switch to start and hold it there. If the test light goes out or the meter reading drops to zero, then the key switch is definitely the problem.

This is not unusual. Key switches do wear out. You can order a new CORRECT key switch from Bob Meyer. He will mail one to you but you must provide him with the serial and model number of your tractor so that he sends you the proper switch. You won't find this switch elsewhere. If you attempt to use a generic switch, then you will no longer have the same control over the headlamps as you currently do with an OEM switch. And you may also run into other problems if you get a generic switch intended for engines with a different ignition system.

So I suggest that you do not create further problems for yourself and just go with the correct switch immediately.

As for Harvey 2 and SuperABen, there is no magneto used in Case garden tractor engines.
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Harvey: It is battery ignition with points. It cranked and ran fine when I first got it. With the ignition in on position I get fire to the points but when I engage the starter there is no fire to points or plug. With the starter disengaged and the ignition on with the engine still drifting to a stop, I have fire to the points and the plug.
 
TOM: Thanks for the wealth of info. you provide on this site. I'll get the test light out tonight. Thanks to you other Guys as well.
 
Either change the ignition switch to a battery switch, or trace the wires to see if they are hooked up correctly.
The symptoms you describe indicates its a magneto switch and not a battery switch.
 
Harvey,
If the tractor ran fine at one point with this switch in the dash, then it isn't a switch designed for magneto ignitions that ground out the mag. It's just a switch that has failed due to wear and tear.
 
You are right, the switch is probably wore out.
I have bought garden tractors that had the wrong switch on them.
I had one that would start when I turned loose of the key, but it was in good condition and the spinning of the engine after I turned loose of the key it would start.
 
Tom, I followed the steps you described and just as you suggested the switch is bad. Getting a new one coming. THANKS!!
 
Not doubting Tom's diagnosis, but another thing to check while waiting for the new switch. Occasionally dirty cable connections or dragging starter bushings will pull the voltage low enough that the coil won't fire.
Willie
 

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