Kohler K321 No Spark

Appleman007

New User
Got an Kohler 321 hasn"t been started in ten years but ran before stored indoors. Trying to get it started, no spark. Replaced the plug, coil, wire, condenser, also cleaned the brushes and magnets. Breaker points look like new. Anyone have an idea????
 
I'd make sure all wires are hooked up, none shorting out. Otherwise everything you mentioned you replaced and checked it should have spark.
 
are the points opening OK?

I have seen bad condensers right out of the box. maybe retry the old one.??

Make sure you have power to the coil. may be fused ignition??? but I'm just guessing it may be on a garden tractor .
 
The ignition is probably grounded somewhere. Check all your wires and make sure the covering is good.

Otherwise, check your points: do you have the right air gap (I believe .020)? Are they closing completely?

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_1346_c_all.pdf

Ben W. in VA
OldPathsEquipment.com
 
What type of ign system on eng-points/magneto or points/12v coil?-the K321 came both ways.

Regardless if a mag or 12v ign system,as has been said confirm that points are opening/closeing,if not,either points set incorrectly or plunger/push pin for points may be stuck in block due to rust,after confirming points operating,clean point contacts as same may oxidzed,disconnect coil/condenser lead(s) from points,connect an ohmmeter/battery powered test light between terminal on points & eng block.

With spark plug out,rotate flywheel slowly by hand,confirm you get a zero ohm reading/light when points close,if you do reconnect coil/condenser,if this is a mag ign leave kill lead to ign sw disconnected from points/coil,crank eng & check for spark.

If you have spark now then problem in wiring harness,ign sw/stop sw or safety sw's on tractor/equipment that this eng is mounted on.If no spark with kill lead disconnected,then problem on eng-points set incorrectly,bad condenser,wire from points to coil shorted to block//point cover,poor coil ground connection due to rust/dirt,bad plug lead or plug.

If ign system points/12v coil,check that wire from ign sw to coil is connected to +(pos)terminal on coil,if polarity on coil reversed you won't get spark,turn ign sw to run position & check for 12v at + terminal of coil,if you have check points as above,if points working ok disconnect lead from ign sw to coil,connect a temp lead to coil & battery +(pos)terminal,crank eng,if you have spark now,then problem in wiring,ign sw,safety sw's on tractor/equipment,if still no spark with direct connection to battery,then problem on eng.
 
It's a points/coil ignition. I did everything you suggested except didn't use the ohmmeter on the points going to try that right now.
 
Those engines have a small fiberglass push rod
that rides on the camshaft and works the points.
I can get "Gummed up" and hold the points open,
though thats unusual due to spring pressure
trying to close points,OR, it does get worn out
thus not long enough to open points. NAPA has
that part in their "Outdoor Power Equipment"
Catalog, or, Kohler dealers "Should" Stock it.
Some contact points sets include one.
 
I always use a square of paper off a brown paper bag between the points, since sandpaper scratches off the coating.

Ben W. in VA
OldPathsEquipment.com
 
I've used 320 wet or dry for years on points. I still have points in two engines and they haven't been changed in years. They may've needed a little rubbing with some 320 if there's no fire to the plug. They also make point files.
Hal
 
True, Hal; I use point files and fine sand paper all the time on old points.

I didn't clarify enough in my original post: new points always receive a brown paper scrubbing before they are installed. Takes the factory oil/scum off.

I save the more extensive/stock removal methods for old points. Brown paper won't cut it then!

I guess it's just a matter of preference for the first round of polishing.

Ben W. in VA
OldPathsEquipment.com
 

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