Case 224 winter use

Yesterday for the first time I took my 224 Case out in the winter and pushed snow with it. I was surprised at what it could do with the front mounted dozer blade. No weights, no chains I was able to push quite a pile of snow. It was lots of fun. Here's my question. If I was to regularly use this machine in the winter, what oil is recommended for the engine (14hp one cylinder Kohler) and could/should I put thinner oil in the hydraulic system? I ask this because I had a hard time getting it started. It doesnt turn over very well, in fact in summer it already kinda barely turns over. I understand that these call for thick oil in hydraulic system (15w40 engine oil) and dont work well in summer with thinner oil. What about winter? Guess I'd have to change it in spring again?

Kohler states that you can use 10W30 in temps that are lower
than zero F. You just have to keep a closer eye on the oil level
because the engine will use a bit more oil with this lighter grade.

You could also switch to 10W30 in the hydraulic system for the
winter and then change it back to 15W40 or 20W50 for the
summer.

You should also work on finding and correcting the problems
that are evident in the starting system. Begin with the battery.
Use a hydrometer to check all six cells. They should show that
they have the same specific gravity reading and that the reading
is high enough that it indicates a fully charged battery. Then
subject it to a load test to find out how well it holds a charge. If
the battery cannot pass these tests, replace it.

The second problem is often with the cables that connect to the
battery and to the starter/generator. My best advice is to install
new ones and make sure that you clean where they connect to
thoroughly. The battery should be grounded to the engine
block, nowhere else and that grounding spot must be clean and
shiny.

The final issue is the start/gen itself. Badly worn brushes,
bearings and commutator all contribute to sluggish
performance. Either send it out for a rebuild or purchase an
exchange starter if you are not capable of doing these repairs.

If you intend to rely on your Case to clear the snow then it is up
to you make the Case reliable. You know that you have a
problem so ......fix it now.

I use a full size car battery in my garden tractor that has a starter/generator. The battery has the side mount for the cables like GM vehicles used. The battery was in use for 10 years and was bought from Walmart I thought it was time for a new battery. I also replaced the battery cables. If your Kohler has points I would do a tuneup. I run 30wt oil the year around. I use a dipstick heater if the temp drops into the teens. It's a Wards tractor made by Gilson and I bought it new in 1971. Never rebuilt the engine I use it for plowing the garden and snow. Years ago it was used for mowing. When I was on travel my wife kept the grass mowed. I also used it for hauling fire wood and leaves. It has transmission fluid in the hydrostatic drive and hydraulic lift. Hal
PS: I bought another battery from Walmart about $100.00.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I have a recent battery in it, the biggest that will possibly fit in its battery box. Ive replaced both cables and most of the wiring to and from the starter/generator. The starter/generator had been rebuilt before I got the tractor by a proffesional auto electric shop. Thing is I don't know how long ago that was. I guess it could still be weak. One question for Tom Arnold tho, you mentioned that the ground cable should go only to the engine block? Well thats exactly where I hooked it to but with the rubber mounted engine and all I was wondering if there should be another wire from the engine to the tractor chassis to ensure a good ground to the regulator. The wiring diagram i aquired is somewhat generic and not specific to a case tractor. I appreciate your expertise on these tractors and thought you might know.

When you think about the electrical system of your Case, the
only items that draw current that are not attached to the engine
block are the two headlights.

The item that draws the heaviest current is the starter and that's
why it is important to ground the battery to the block. That said,
I agree that having a modest grounding cable between the block
and the frame is a good idea to ensure that headlights and the
voltage regulator are properly grounded.

You said that you replaced "both" cables and that implies "two",
not three. You have a cable to ground the battery, a cable to
supply power to the solenoid and a cable to connect the solenoid
to the starter.


Keep in mind that Kohler's are fitted with ACR or automatic
compression release. This feature opens the exhaust valve
slightly to allow the starter to spin the engine over easily and
when it reaches a certain RPM, the valve closes. If you do not
have your valve lash set properly, then the starter could be
fighting compression and struggling to get the engine spinning.

You can also do a test to see if there are any problems with your
electrical system.

Remove the spark plug wire so that the engine will not start.
Then spin the engine over using the key switch to get a sense as
to how fast the engine spins.

Then use a set of decent booster cables to connect the negative
side of the battery in your car/truck to the engine block and then
connect the positive side of that battery to the big lug on the
starter solenoid that hosts the wire going to the starter. The
starter motor will instantly begin to spin. The issue is....does it
spin faster than it did before?

If it does spin faster, then you still have a problem with the
electrical system in the tractor. Recent battery or not, perform
the tests I suggested. The hydrometer test will show if one cell
is weak and that's all it takes to make the engine spin slow.

Thats interesting and makes a lot of sense. Turns out when I started it the other day, I boosted it exactly like that from my truck which I had running. Yes then it cranked considerably faster. Im gonna need to take this tractor to where I work as there I have access to the proper equipment to do these tests. Also if this battery is no good they would likely give me some warranty on it. I'm a mechanic at a John Deere dealership and so thats where I have all my good tools. Thanks for your help. I will check into these things.