Bolens tractor

Previously , last year had asked question"s on this Bolen"s 3016G Model, B & S engine (Megnetron ignition0. It had been on fire and the wiring harness along with the ignition switch were damaged and ohad to be replace. I did attempt to replace with a store counter replacement ignition switch and ruined the coil. Did purchase a proper coil have not made any attempts to rebuild, scared of ruining the coil. Question"s. What is the proper procedure to follow with out ruining the coil and not being too expensive. Thanks, Murray

Murray,

Do you have a printed electrical schematic of the mower? Do you own a volt/ohm meter? I don't know how tech savvy you are but if you don't have these two things its going to be very hard to repair your mower. You also don't say if you are trying to make/repair your wiring harness or replace it with a new one.

Basically you need to determine what each post in your replacement switch does. One post on the switch should make contact with either another post (to ground) or the switch housing itself when the switch is in the off position. Same post shoud not connect to any other post or housing when switch is in run or start position. That post should connect to your magneto.

You need power to the fuel solenoid (if it has one) when switch is in run & start positions.

You also need connection to the alternator when the switch is in run and start positions.
Some alternator circuits go directly to the battery, but the better ones are controlled by the igntion switch.

you need power to the start circuit when the switch is in start positon only. There will probably be some safety interlock switches in this circuit as well. I don't recommend bypassing any.

Some units use interlock switches to find a ground for the solenoid energize circuit, this is why an electrical schematic is so helpful.

Take this for what its worth. If you don't feel up to it, best let someone work on it who knows what they are doing.

They are 2 common types of ignition switch. There are a couple other less common ones with a 6th terminal, but they basically work similar.

One is for battery powered ignition, and one for electronic, magnetron type igntions. The magnetron does not like when 12 volts is sent to its kill wire by the wrong type keyswitch. Sounds like thats what may have happened on your first one.

The terminal on the keyswitch that goes to your magnetron, needs to have continuity between the terminal and switch body or G terminal when off, and no other position, and it can NEVER have 12 volts on that terminal. It also can not have continuity to any other terminal, except the G terminal if there is one.

If your keyswitch does not have a terminal marked M, its probably for a battery ignition (they usually have a terminal marked I instead of M).

IF you have a service manual or wiring schematic for your machine, Bolens shows the terminals that are connected when the key is in various positions, and what each terminal does, and where it goes in the harness. Can be very helpful so you can wire up your new switch to match, once you are sure you have the proper type switch.