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Garden Tractors Discussion Forum

Re: Snapper Hydro Drive

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joe csuti

07-28-2012 12:59:29

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The pins you are refering to may be the guide pins on disk brake caliper,these tend to stick in caliper body due to rust/dirt and as the pads wear the pin travel required to apply brakes is longer,if pins rusty/dirty caliper may not release completely or not at all.Looking at assembly drawings of some mod snapper tractors the brake locks one of the reduction gears in axle,if brake not releasing completely due to sticking caliper/parking brake engaged,rear wheels won't turn when both off ground.

Goto link below & click on snapper logo,select mod# from tractor list,look at transmission group & clutch/brake assembly drawings,may help you find out what's frozen,broken or disconnected in linkages or brake system.

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07-28-2012 13:33:15

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 Re: Snapper Hydro Drive in reply to joe csuti, 07-28-2012 12:59:29  
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I have the same manual and parts breakdown as this site shows. It really doesn't show what I need to see. I am under the impression the brakes are inside the two hydro-drive gearboxes. Can't see any disc brakes that I can tell.

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joe csuti

07-28-2012 16:56:21

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 Re: Snapper Hydro Drive in reply to microfarmer, 07-28-2012 13:33:15  
Due to fact you didn't include mod# of tractor,I just went to partstree & looked at assembly drawings/parts list for several mod# hydro drive series 2 tractors,if you have assembly drawings/parts list for tractor,look at transmission service parts drawing & look at items 12-16,this is the brake disk/caliper assembly,if you don't have a drawing/parts list for above parts or can't find on drawings POST MOD# of tractor so parts list can be looked at online.

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07-28-2012 17:24:23

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 Re: Snapper Hydro Drive in reply to joe csuti, 07-28-2012 16:56:21  
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Mine is Snapper Yard Cruiser Hydro Drive HZS15423KVE. My book doesn't show any parts breakdown for the transmission internals. I'd sure be interested to find some.

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joe csuti

07-29-2012 02:54:24

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 Re: Snapper Hydro Drive in reply to microfarmer, 07-28-2012 17:24:23  
OK-I went back to partstree & looked at mower,I orginally looked at series 2 lawn/garden tractors,your's is a zero turn mower which has a completely different transaxle,if both brake rods are releaseing I would say problem lies in freewheel valve as ronnie said,possibly due to a sticking/dirty valve or possibly cable stiff/rusty to valve arm & not pulling arm on valve far enough to release hyd fluid in trans,the brakes are probably a hyd function within trans,there is no ext disk brake on trans as used on lawn/garden tractors.

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07-29-2012 06:54:05

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 Re: Snapper Hydro Drive in reply to joe csuti, 07-29-2012 02:54:24  
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Thanks, Joe. I've looked all over and can't find any parts breakdown for the hydro units themselves. Have found some other repair manuals on ebay for other hydro units. These are made by Eaton. I will explore the sticking valve idea, the cable and the levers it attaches to seem to be quite free.

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07-29-2012 12:43:48

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 diagram in reply to microfarmer, 07-29-2012 06:54:05  
click link below for diagram.

#26 is the lever on the transmission that lets the mower move. Appears to be on the bottom of the hydro trans. Might have bent it.

#40 is the cable that pulls that lever.

Make sure the E brake is off when trying to roll it. You might need to hold the trans release knob while rolling it. It might not hold itself.

They are two different hydro transmissions. From the diagram, I can only see one release lever but each trans might have a release lever on it.

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08-01-2012 11:57:35

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 Re: diagram in reply to rrobert, 07-29-2012 12:43:48  
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I appreciate the suggestions and taking the time to hunt for the diagrams etc. What it turns out is, there is a lever on each Hydro unit that releases the hydraulic pressure; they are linked to a common release cable. All of that is undamaged and free. The levers each bear on a sort of rod that goes into the case and apparently press on a valve inside. Those rods don't pop out like they should, and yet, they don't appear to be frozen. So either something inside isn't moving like it should to pop them out, or--maybe--there's not enough oil in the case anymore to develop the hydraulic pressure to move them. It seems to be impossible to add oil, at least, the manual says to take it to a dealer. That may turn out to be all I can do.

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