Briggs Model 326437 Points plunger

MNGB

Well-known Member
Hi all, was working on a cast iron single Briggs model 326437 it was running fine with good spark when all of a sudden it was like the ignition switch was being shut of. Check and found sprk to be intermittent, removed the points cover to check the point gap find that the plunger is barely moving no way to get the points set to 0.020". Any ideas as to what is the problem? Is it possible to remove the plunger with out braking it or dissembling the engine?
GB in MN
 
The push pin for points is probably worn/broken,there is an outside chance cam lobe worn ,but you'll have to replace seal & push pin or bushing/push pin 1st to see if that cures problem,the problem being on your mod eng briggs used 3 different seal/pin or bushing/pin assemblies,in all case's to service push pin points will have to be removed.

Goto link below,click on briggs eng parts,enter eng mod# on left side of pg,when you get to mod listing pg select mod# 326437-0027-99(1st one)look at assembly drawing/parts list for cylinder,head,spark plug,confirm that you have key#'s 722-724A,342 on eng,if so remove retainer ,pull seal/plunger assembly out of block & check/replace.

IF above parts are NOT on your eng,then goto 2 addresse's listed at end of reply & look at both style bushings/plunges & determine which style on eng,same will tell you how to remove each style,if you have either of these style's,bushing/push pin are replaced as a unit,if pin worn,damaged or broken take eng mod/type & sn with you to local mower shop & have them lookup & order a new assembly.

http://psst.home.sprynet.com/bu1.jpeg
http://psst.home.sprynet.com/bu2.jpeg
briggs
 
Hi Joe, the type # is 0135-03 and the date # is 7609281, looking at the parts tree site it looks like the 342 / 298125 plunger-breaker is what is in the engine. Can this plunger be pulled out of the engine or does the engine have to be dissembled to remove it?
Thanks for your help I printed out the first two pages for reference also.
GB
 
Hi Hal per my numbers the magnetron can't be used on my engine per the B&S Parts manual the magnetron kit can be used on engines with Code Date after 810808100 and before 85012200.
GB
 
Remove retainer(724a) and retainer seal(724) from eng pull on plunger(342) gently with a pair of pliers & try to pull plunger/seal(722) out of block together,be carefull when pulling on plunger as same may break,also seal may be age hardend/frozen in block makeing same hard to remove.
 
Ok will try that the seal is soft looks almost new along with retainer, I had them off and gently pulled on the plunger with just my fingers and it didn't come out easy so left it till I have more information, but it should pull out right? I see on Parts tree they don't give the plunger away $42.70 + shipping.
GB
 
You can use the Magnetron, but your flywheel needs to be sent to Briggs to be re magnetized. I'm putting one of these on my B110. Does away with the points/coil.
AaronSEIA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-FIRE-II-IGNITION-MODULE-UNIVERSAL-LESCO-050409-/130450959516?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5f7bac9c#ht_1843wt_1037
 
Hi I guess that's a possibility, but pulling the engine on this tractor is a major pain, this is a MW/Gilson the oil pan is the front axle bolster and getting the driveshaft disconnected is a major dissemble job not to mention removing the flywheel and sending it out. I don't think its cost effective.
GB
 
Try local dealer & see what he get's for plunger or goto jacks small engine,outdoor distributors & other online dealers,see what they get for plunger & shipping,also try going to ebay & type briggs 298125 in search compare prices for plunger/shipping against what local dealer,other online dealers get.I don't buy parts from partstree,only use website as a parts reference,their parts prices/shipping too high.

As far as plunger seal,as I said before seal may be age hardned & tight in block due to heat,you might have to damage/destroy same to remove,as to myself I would replace plunger & seal as seal may be worn & leak with new plunger,after that if you still have problem that you can't set point gap eng will will have to be opened & cam lobe for plunger checked.

The solid state megafire unit works on most briggs eng,although I've had 2 eng(3.5 & 4 hp) it didn't work on even reversing connections on unit,you might want to take a shot at one of these units if cam lobe the problem.

Goto link below & type 31-8786 in search.I've had good luck with these units,although as I said I had 2 eng it wouldn't work on.I don't know what they get for megafire units on ebay,you'll have to check.
ign
 
You can pull that engine, but I would take a lot of pictures before pulling it. You need to pay close attention your driveshaft how its bolted so it can flex on the rubber biscuits. Take pictures of it before disassembly. I have a Wards tractor I bought new in 1971. It has the 14 hp B&S engine. Hal
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Hi Joe thanks, I've bought lots of parts from those folks always good to do business with. Last night I was thinking of trying the Nova solid state unit I have one in the shop. I'm going to give it a try.
Thanks Hal, the tractor I'm working on is a 1976 Wards / Gilson the driveshaft has a similar coupling this one dosen't habe the rubber like yours rather a fiber disc, and I have had the engine out and its not easy that's why I dragging my feet on that move.
Thanks again all.
 
I had a Viking garden tractor and 5 or 6 of the StandardTwin's back in the 70's. I bought the Viking in 1960. When I sold the Viking I kept the plow to see if I could mount it to my Wards tractor. I bought parts for those tractors from New York Mills and Ottertail, MN. They had features that were well ahead of most walk behind garden tractors.

They had a multi-disc clutch that ran in oil and it was all gear drive and they had a pto. Hal
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That plunger does not come out from the outside without removing bushing also. It can be removed from inside after camshaft is removed. It is doubtful the cam lobe is worn as there is no "bump" on the camshaft but a short flat notch on the camshaft.The plunger drops into this notch to close the points and then opens them at the other end of the notch. Very little movement on the plunger. Briggs price on the plunger is
$35.05.
 
Hi Hal that's a nice looking Wards you have you've taken good care of it and the plows looks good. I'm about 60 miles south or both New York Mills and Ottertail. I got this Wards on an auction it wasn't a bad looking tractor I knew it needed work could see that someone tried to get at the coil by cutting the blower housing and that the variable drive was locked up. Turns out that the set screws that hold the variable drive assy to the shaft had backed out and with time they worked into the pulley bores locking them is place I got all that repaired and the reinstalled and was having a time with the darn carb leaking at idle run good at half throttle and above drove it around must have went thur at least 3/4 gals of gas finally yesterday got the carb fixed and then the ignition thing started.
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Hi 6jack, about how much movement does the plunger have, when cranking the engine over I can feel it moving some an d using a continuity light it will turn the light on and off but there is no way to set the point to 0.020" have also been wondering if the points are causing the problem they look almost new.
 
I thought my tractor looked better on the owner's manual. That Viking tractor I had was made in 1936 and I guess the plow was made around that time. One of my co-worker's told me
about this tractor that his late brother had bought it new. It was stored in a chicken house
along with the plow, cultivator attachment and disk harrow. It makes a difference when they sheltered. The plow also had a coating of grease on it. Hal
a62573.jpg
 
Measured with a dial indicator the plunger moves .018" to .019". This distance is increased at the end of the point arm. If you put a mark on the crank and the rear bearing plate the plunger will move in and back out as the crank is turned about one half inch. I usually set mine close and then adjust while the engine is running.
 
Thanks I'll check tomorrow, thats not much movement I would have thought more maybe I'm thinking wrong its not the plunger at all. I know it moves some.
Tomorrow afternoon we are slated to get 3 to 5" of snow I sure hope they are wrong.
Yes Hal keeping equipment under cover out of the weather makes a huge difference in its life. So I take it you sold the Viking?
GB in MN
 
I sold the Viking and all the StandardTwins. I should've kept one of the Twins. I'm probably getting too old to man handle one of them now. My late dad was in his 70's and he wanted to run them and I let him. I had to show him when backing up he needed decrease the engine speed a lot or it would lift him off the ground. Hal
 
OK HAPPY DAYS are here again, I want to thank you guys, Joe, Hal, 6jack Aaron for all the help and suggestions, this morning after being well rested I rechecked every thing 1st I tried the Nova II electronic unit with a neon spark tester it looked good tried the spark plug no spark so the was out, next I tried the trick of just arcing the coil wire to ground (not connecting to the points) no spark little spark no spark so I made a new spark plug wire still not good tried a second coil nothing went and got another coil (these are used) and just like that good spark. Set the points connected everything with jumper wires and the engine started up and ran nice. Saturday right away I suspected the coil and tried another turns out it was bad also (both are now in the trash can).
Hey Hal I know what your saying about the 2 wheel tractors I've thought about them but I know my right shoulder would not like it one bit.
Thanks again guys.
 

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