case 222 cuts off when it warms up

I have a Case 222 lawn mower. It cranks and runs great, but quits in a few minutes when it gets warm or hot. I pulled out the plug and grounded it to the motor and it doesn' have fire. After it cools it will crank fine and run for a minute or so. I changed the coil and that did not help. Any suggestions

Check that you don't have oil/dirt on point contacts,or points pitted/worn & need replacement,also check gap should be .020",try replaceing condenser,same may be going bad & breaking down from heat.

I agree with Joe but would like to add the following. As engines come up to operating temp, many parts expand. That includes the pushrod that operates the points, the points themselves and the points cover.

Carefully check the wire coming from the negative terminal on the coil to the points, especially where it passes under the cover. It may be shorting out when things are hot.

This is something simple. You could toss in a new set of points and condenser and replace the aforementioned wire if you want to eliminate those items instantly from your list of likely culprits.

You could also remove the wire from the negative terminal on the coil, get a jumper wire, ground one end of the jumper, turn on the key, touch the other end of the jumper wire to the negative terminal of the coil for just an instant before removing it and see if you get spark at the plug.

After all, points are nothing more than an ON/OFF switch and the jumper wire can simulate what the points do by applying current to the coil and then taking it away an instant later. If the coil is good, then the field will collapse and induce a high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil.

Give it a try and let us know how you made out.

Your condenser or the coil/armature may need replacing. Hal

Here's what the armature may look like. Hal

Kohler K's spec'd for Case tractors do not use such an item.

Then they would have to use one of these. Hal
Untitled URL Link

Yes sir....you are correct. They use the automotive style 12 volt coil.

Ignition Coil
(Battery)
Part No.
41 519 21-S
KOH-4151921S

But I believe that the OP said he swapped out his coil and that did not solve his problem.

Here is an update. I changed the coil, the condensor, I set the gap to 20 on the points, i also changed the wire from the points to the coil. I went ahead and put a new spark plug and a new spark plug wire. It will still crank good, it runs around one minute and it cuts off like it has a direct short. Not sure where to go from here?

Connect a 12v light(small bulb)or 12v test light to the + term on coil,run eng,when same stops again if light goes out you have a problem further back in elect system,loose connection/connector that's sensitive to heat/vibration,ign sw going bad,possible loose internal connection in ammeter,tom may be able to advise you on this as to location in circuit & if it affects feed to ign sw/coil(I don't have a wiring diag)IF lamp stays on when eng quits,check points push pin same may be sticking in block or worn & need replacement,also if running with points cover on try running without cover,depending on wire position on points same may be shorting to cover as eng warms up.

The electrical systems in these tractors are very simple but not knowing the serial number of your 222 makes it challenging. The earlier models did not have an ammeter, they used a charge light. But all of them had an inline fuse holder that could be affected by heat.

Now if the fuse or fuse holder was affected, then you would have NO POWER to the lights nor would you be able to spin the starter or start/gen unit.

If you can spin the starter, then Joe's suggestions about loose connectors or a bad ignition switch are an excellent place to start. If the ignition switch is bad, then purchase a new one from an Ingersoll dealer because you won't find a correct switch at some auto parts store. If you need a parts source, then just ask me and I'll give you contact info for an excellent, trustworthy dealer that will ship to you the next day.

If you are really jammed up on this problem and do not have the correct wiring diagram for the serial number of your tractor, then you can find it by using the link below.
Link

2 ideas:

when it loses fire, check for power (12v) at the coil +. If you are losing power there, the problem is back on the tractor somewhere. My first thought is a circuit breaker, but you could have another wiring issue (short) that is tripping the breaker.

If you have 12v. there, when it cools enough to start again, watch the operation of the points. The plunger might be freezing up and holding the points open.

No circuit breakers were used on Case tractors but if some owner installed one, then it's a possibility. The sticking plunger rod is certainly a known issue.

Serial #9681138. It has a Kohler 12 Hp K301A motor.