Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller 1970s

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Attempting to remedy leaking wheel seals on an older model (1970s) Troy-Bilt Horse tiller (case S/N 206221), I've managed to remove the wheel seals clips and shims. I see there is up/down movement of the axle, so it appears I will at least need to replace the bushings. Does this require removal of the shaft? If so, how do I remove it?

It appears the shaft has been worn by wear against the seals, so perhaps I just need to replace that while I'm this far in?
 

I think that shaft has a gear pressed onto it. Think you are going to have to remove cover from gear box and see how it all goes together.
 
I have a parts book that shows the gears are keyed onto the shaft, but I'm not sure how it disassembles. The view inside hasn't revealed much, except to see it's a pretty tight space. The shaft slides a few inches left and right (now that both snap rings are removed), but then it catches on something. I tried to tap it left to right (with hammer/wood block), but no movement. Afraid I'll break something if I get too rough with it.
 

I haven't actually taken one apart myself, but the shaft had to be installed through the gears already in the case. The options for
holding the gears in place could be (1) press fit with keys (2) set screws somewhere near the center of the gears or (3) additional retaining rings outside the gears or (4) if it is a two gear cluster it might be pinned in the middle if there is space between the gears. Long time since we used a Troybilt. John
 
go to the troybilt site, poke around a bit under manuals, you will find boatloads, use "horse" as model and "1" as serial

somebody scanned in lots of them and they are listed by serial number

many of the parts are still available

haven't checked recently but it worked last year
 
For all who may have the same question in the future, I discovered the wheel shaft (axle) on this tiller can be removed by tapping completely through from either side (left-to-right or vise versa). The gears inside the trans case have a keyway completely through. The key itself will catch and assist in driving the bushing out of the case (actually works for both sides).
 
After searching all over for bronze-friently GL-1 85W-140 with no success, I contacted a local Troy-Bilt dealer (an outdoor power equipment shop) with the question of where I can find it. Before I even told him it was for the tiller, he asked if that's what it was for and then told me they had asked Troy-Bilt about it directly. The Troy-Bilt answer was that GL-5 is recommended because it's best for the seals. Has anyone else heard that from the Troy-Bilt (MTD) folks?
 

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