boxed cub is unleased

I have been posting the progress of the 1965 cub 100 I bought and put back together in original condition. I bought it off a guy that was planning to restore this unit that his dad had bought new.It sat in his garage in a box for over 10 yrs. I decided to not paint it or restore it because it was in great shape for the age. The lastest question I have is concerning the rpms. I wonder if when the 10 hp kohler is throttled up it is reving too high. It screams it say the least. Should it do this or should I set the throttle limit some how on the high end? I mean it screams when you go past half throttle. All the way down it perfect it stays running with a low rpm, sounds great.I don't know if too may rpms could be hard on the old gil. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
I am thinking the K-series kohlers weren't supposed to turn more than 3300 rpm.

I am guessing that you have the governor spring in the correct holes, that will make a difference.
I can't tell you which ones are correct without doing some research. I bet it is posted on the IH cub cadet forum, though.

On my 108 CC, to limit wide open throttle rpms, the bracket that the throttle cable pulls has an L shaped bar underneath and the pivot bolt goes through it. The bar can be used to limit how far the throttle cable can pull the governor spring by twisting it around and locking it down with the same bolt.
 
That engine would have been governed to run at 3600 RPM max at wide open throttle when it was built. If you believe that it is exceeding that figure, then you need to borrow or buy a tachometer so you can get and accurate read on the true RPM and not try to rely on your ears.

There are mechanical tachs that can be pushed against the end of a spinning shaft and there are tachs that will read RPM's from a reflective strip you stick to any spinning part of the engine that is driven directly off the crankshaft.

Google "tachometer" or go on e-bay and do a search.

Also, Kohler K manuals can be accessed for FREE at Kohler dot com. I suggest that you go there and look at the Service Manual and Operator's Manual.
 
You may have to reset the governor. In order to do this you loosen the bolt on the governor arm, turn the cross shaft as far as it will go counterclockwise. Then hold the shaft and pull the governor arm as far away from the carburetor as it will go then tighten the bolt on the governor arm.
 
You are correct and that's good advice but if you don't have a tachometer to measure the true engine speed, then how do you make that adjustment with any degree of accuracy?

Engine repair should not be a guessing game....unless you like rebuilding engines.
 
Make sure the spring for the governor is a Kohler spring and not something someone just threw on there. Tension needs to be correct for it to operate right.
 
So are you telling us that a tach is not needed just because the Kohler manual FAILS to prescribe using one? Does that sound logical? Would a doctor guess at your blood pressure or would he use an instrument?

If you set the wide open throttle RPM too high, then you run the risk of engine damage. If you set it too low, then the engine won't be giving you everything it was designed to give. Ground speed in every gear will be slower. Implements that were designed to give peak performance at 3600 rpm will not perform as well as they could.

Here's a thought. Those who do not possess all the tools needed to perform engine repair and rebuilding should leave that work up to those who have made that investment, know how to use them as well as WHY those tools are needed. Service and repair manuals are a great asset to have but sometimes you have to apply common sense that results from experience.
 

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