Changing fuel pump on a Power Major

Hi!
I bought an old diesel tractor from a guy I know two years ago... after taking an interest in it, and researching it, it turned out to be a Fordson. I assumed it was a 62-64 Super Major without looking deeper since I thought, from what I had read, that older British Fords hadn't crossed the pond westbound.

Now, there's some air that has started to get into the system from the mechanical fuel pump, so I went to the New Holland dealership to get parts. The pump they wanted to sell me, I didn't recognize it. However, looking at their diagrams, I instantly recognized the 1952-1961 design as what I had.

They don't sell pumps for that generation, only the seal kits.

Now, I found this website, and I learned that I can get the exact same kit from this site (which I will do, even if it takes a bit longer to get it, to encourage this site)... or, the complete pump, too.

(which wasn't even an option at the New Holland dealership, at all.)

So, would you guys recommend the pump:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-Power-Major_Major-Fuel-Pump_E1ADKN9350B.html

Or just the kit to fix my pump:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-Power-Major_Fuel-Pump-Repair-Kit_81708068.html

?

I'm generally decently good as a mechanic, but I have zero prior knowledge of these tractors. Normally, a faulty fuel pump, I'll swap it for a functioning one... Is there any risk the seal kit won't fix my air-continuing-to-enter-fuel problem?

Also, I would like to identify what year my tractor is from... couldn't find the serial # anywhere... any advice?

Thanks in advance!!

A faulty lift pump will generally leak fuel into the crank case or give a bleed back problem..
Is the fuel bleeding back to the tank and giving you the impression that its sucking air?
Is there any way you could patch in a temporary clear line.. from the lift pump to the tank??
You could take yours apart and have a look at the valves.. a lot of times dirt/debis will get under the valves and hold them open.
Just put a punch mark or scribe a line on the top to bottom pieces to clock them correctly.
The diaphragm is hooked to the rod by a slot.. push down on the diaphragm and twist to unhook it..
Opposite going back together..
I hope this helps.
IF you get a kit, pay attention as to which way the valves go in..