Oil Sump (pan) Need Super Major

rickne

New User
Well I found out why I had oil pouring out the front of the engine, the oil sump is cracked.
I have searched here and through Google and can not find a source for either a new one or used one. I suspect a new one would be more than I paid for the tractor!

I have sent a request to external_link for a used one but have not heard back yet.

Anyone have any suggestions as for a source.

I am going to take the sump to the welding shop in the am and see what he thinks, I know it can be welded/brazed but I have to find the right person to do it.

Thanks for any help,
Rick H in Nebraska.
 
get it welded don't know the rod but it is silver. Had mine done where the frame from front axle cracked the attachment lug.
 
(quoted from post at 01:46:33 07/11/12) get it welded don't know the rod but it is silver. Had mine done where the frame from front axle cracked the attachment lug.

Will stop by welding shop this afternoon. Welding cast is not hard just some very specific steps to take and I do not have the equipment to accomplish it.
Must be heated and kept heated while welding. Stick best, I only have wire feed, and wire feed cast wire cost more than the tractor!
I have had this shop do a lot of aluminum turbo mounts for me in the past and they are good at it. I know they have done cast engine blocks so I am hopeful.

My other thought is WHY, why did it crack right dead center from where the seal mounts to about 3" back/
I bought the tractor siting, not run in several years. Maybe that's why it got parked, big ole oil leak!

Rick H...
 
There is a shop in Nevada Iowa that specializes in welding
cast iron. They heat it up in an oven and weld it while hot.

midwest cylinder and head repair.
 

Thanks,
They are East of Ames.
Gonna check local first, that's a 360 mile round trip x2 from me.
Rick H...
 
(quoted from post at 10:27:34 07/11/12) I have an old engine out of a Fordson Major Diesel. Will it have the part you need on it?


It is possible that a Major would fit, depends on the engine serial number.

S/N in on flat spot right side above front of injection pump.
Thanks,
Rick H...
 

I dropped the oil sump by the welding shop I use. He did not see a problem welding it up. He has done many cat dozer pans and engine blocks.
My concern is the front seal. That crack goes right through where the seal sits.
I should have it back Friday and know if I will be good to go or pushing for replacement.

I have not been able to find a part number on line and the sump is not here with me. I forgot to look last night after I sand blasted preparing it for the welder.
Rick H...
 
(quoted from post at 10:27:34 07/11/12) I have an old engine out of a Fordson Major Diesel. Will it have the part you need on it?

Tracy,
Looks like I am going to need a used one.
Do you have the serial number of the engine you have handy?
Let me know,
Rick H...
 
(quoted from post at 08:26:34 07/13/12)
(quoted from post at 10:27:34 07/11/12) I have an old engine out of a Fordson Major Diesel. Will it have the part you need on it?

Tracy,
Looks like I am going to need a used one.
Do you have the serial number of the engine you have handy?
Let me know,
Rick H...

Well found one in Ft Atkinson IA.
Under $170 shipped to my door not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Thanks!
Rick H...
 
Before going to any great expense try grinding a shallow groove inside and out then fill it with JB weld. Theres no real pressure in there and youve got nothing to lose. Cleaning up where the seal goes will be less difficult the a metal weld. Mike
 
(quoted from post at 03:30:45 07/15/12) Before going to any great expense try grinding a shallow groove inside and out then fill it with JB weld. Theres no real pressure in there and youve got nothing to lose. Cleaning up where the seal goes will be less difficult the a metal weld. Mike

Thanks Mike,
That was my first thought BUT, I really only want to remove and install that beast of a sump one time!
The replacement should be here Tuesday and if the weather holds, I will get it back on.
It has been like in the 100's here and it is crippeling us northern plains folk!
 
(quoted from post at 10:20:28 07/16/12)
(quoted from post at 03:30:45 07/15/12) Before going to any great expense try grinding a shallow groove inside and out then fill it with JB weld. Theres no real pressure in there and youve got nothing to lose. Cleaning up where the seal goes will be less difficult the a metal weld. Mike

Thanks Mike,
That was my first thought BUT, I really only want to remove and install that beast of a sump one time!
The replacement should be here Tuesday and if the weather holds, I will get it back on.
It has been like in the 100's here and it is crippeling us northern plains folk!

Well the attempt by the welding shop failed. I located a used one, it came and looks fine.
I had to shim my radius arm as my old oil pan had a 1" hole to match the radius arm, the new one has a 3/4" hole. No big deal, got a top link bushing and it was a little small so built it up with brass rod, inserted it into radius arm hole backing it up with some locktite press fit green.
All fits together well.
I have the pan cleaned up and painted and the block sealing surface ready.
I did quit a bit of leveling work on the oil pan sealing surface, guess over the years and perhaps form the factory it was not real true.
Now to line up the help (someone than can bench press more than me!).
I am going to clean and paint the engine while it is this far torn down so wont put the freshly painted pan on until the front half it cleaned up and painted.
Still reaching 100's around here so things are going slow!
Rick H...
 
(quoted from post at 07:25:55 07/22/12)
(quoted from post at 10:20:28 07/16/12)
(quoted from post at 03:30:45 07/15/12) Before going to any great expense try grinding a shallow groove inside and out then fill it with JB weld. Theres no real pressure in there and youve got nothing to lose. Cleaning up where the seal goes will be less difficult the a metal weld. Mike

Thanks Mike,
That was my first thought BUT, I really only want to remove and install that beast of a sump one time!
The replacement should be here Tuesday and if the weather holds, I will get it back on.
It has been like in the 100's here and it is crippeling us northern plains folk!

Well the attempt by the welding shop failed. I located a used one, it came and looks fine.
I had to shim my radius arm as my old oil pan had a 1" hole to match the radius arm, the new one has a 3/4" hole. No big deal, got a top link bushing and it was a little small so built it up with brass rod, inserted it into radius arm hole backing it up with some locktite press fit green.
All fits together well.
I have the pan cleaned up and painted and the block sealing surface ready.
I did quit a bit of leveling work on the oil pan sealing surface, guess over the years and perhaps form the factory it was not real true.
Now to line up the help (someone than can bench press more than me!).
I am going to clean and paint the engine while it is this far torn down so wont put the freshly painted pan on until the front half it cleaned up and painted.
Still reaching 100's around here so things are going slow!
Rick H...


Well got the oil pan put on. Used floor jack with transmission adapter and one other person to work the jack.
Here is a tip, if you remove and reinstall the timing cover, make sure you do not put to long of a bolt through the front plate on either side!!!!!
That little miss hap cost me an hour of twisting turning and sweating in the terrible temps we been having. Glad I did not force anything!
Rick H...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top