re assembly questions

Anonymous-0 · Jul 13, 2011

Hello all,

Still trying to put my '64 SM back together to complete a rebuild project I started in '09. I have not figured out how the dbl clutch "short" lever springs go back. I know one finger of the spring has a 90 degree bend to the left and then a 90 degree bend stright into a hole in the lever. The other end seems to tuck into the opening of the aluminum cover, I can see the old marks and I do remember taking them out, but for the life of me, they don't seem to fit properly. As I try to line up both holes( spring and lever) and push the pin through, the stright tail of the spring seems too long to tuck down into the opening in the cover plate. Any advice is much appreciated on that subject. One other thing while I am here, I have an engine rebuild kit. the machinest that worked on my block had to mill the top down because it was warped. I bought an all copper head gasket beside the one that comes with the engine kit. Is the copper better to use? How in the heck does it seal? I am also afriad the head will need milling when I get it to the shop. I hope the valves don't hit the pistons after all this. Thanks guys!

Kerry

tiresntracks · Jul 16, 2011

I don't know about the clutch springs, I'll look, when I get the chance.
When you had the block machined, did they also cut the counter bores for the liners deeper? If not, you'll have too much liner protrusion and the head gasket won't seal. A composition gasket will seal better than a copper one.
I don't know how much clearance you have between the valves and pistons. I have had heads resufaced and not had a problem. I would temporarily put the head, gasket, rocker arms, and push rods on and turn the engine over very slowly by hand, to see if anything hits. You can also put a small piece of clay on top of the pistons, and measure the thickness of it after you turn the engine over.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 16, 2011

As a matter of fact the machinist did not say, but he is the best around and I asked him earlier to keep the "nip" at .004 so I assume he did countersink the liners a bit. I will have to measure them and see. Good idea about checking the clearance with clay, I will do that. I still need to get the head machined which I guess will only change the rocker arm adjustment. Why do they sell copper head gasgets if they are not as good at sealing. Is it an "old school" thing when done properly is better. Anyway thanks for getting back to me. I will get those clutch lever arm springs in at some point but if you do find out, I appreciate your answer. Thanks much Kerry

Mike Farmer · Jul 17, 2011

Hi. I am trying to post the 'clutch' pages from my manual if that helps. If they are not properly readable I will be happy to email them direct to you or if you send me your address I'll send them to you. That might take a couple of weeks. I can't offer any advice because I've never actually done one of these. MTF

tiresntracks · Jul 17, 2011

Here's a picture of one of the clutch springs. It's not as clear as I'd like it to be, but you can see where the spring goes.

If you resurface the head, you will also move the valves closer to the pistons.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 18, 2011

Thanks much for the picture! I see now the "tail" of the spring does tuck under the aluminum plate. That is what I needed to know. I will have to muscle the lever down with spring attached to push the shouldered pin through. Awsome thanks again! BTW since its vacation time..... how about a free stay in Sisters Oregon for help and advice with this project. Tractor is all cleaned and 75% painted inside a 2 story cement floor R V garage. The diff, rear axels, transmission, steering, brake/clutch pedels and floorgrates are all back together. Everything else is ready to go back together except head and front end.
Thanks again for the picture Kerry

tiresntracks · Jul 18, 2011

I knew that picture wasn't very good. The spring doesn't tuck under the aluminum plate. It sits on top of it, in the blue circle in this picture. I really wish I had my old camera back.

Sisters isn't too far away. I've been through Bend several times on the way to pick up tractors, or parts.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 18, 2011

Thanks for the clearifacation with the picture. glad I did not try to re assemble yet. O K, I feel better, I can proceed. Thanks much and if you are ever coming through Sisters and have some time to stop in and advise it would be much appreciated. I advertize in the local paper (The Nugget) clasified section under "painting". Only two of us there, you will spot my name. I'll buy you a nice meal in town.Thanks again! Kerry

Mike Farmer · Jul 25, 2011

Hi Got your email. Thanks, No Problem anytime I can help etc.
Would love to take you up on your offer and come and help you fix yours but I'm afraid the "Senior Committee Member"(also fills in as Senior Banker) just might not fully agree. So with sincere regret will have to give that one a miss.
I've enclosed a couple of pics of mine. Actually I very recently sold it to a young lad who wanted to start competition ploughing. Yours etc MTF

Anonymous-0 · Jul 31, 2011

Thanks for the inspirational photos. One day mine could and run like yours! I must keep going and never give up like Winston said. The offer stands if the boss changes her mind, remember free stay!!!
Thanks for posting the pics!

re assembly questions

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Mike Farmer

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Mike Farmer

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