opinion on clutch springs

Hi all,

I have been trying to source new clutch springs. New Holland sent me cleaned up old ones, some even had bad slpitting on them. I did not purchase them but did find brand new ones from a clutch company that are exact dimensions but with 17% more pressure than originals. The clutch company said I could use 6 old and 6 new, evenly spaced but I would rather put all new in.
DO any of you think I would be pushing the limits if I did this? Seems the retainer pins would be taking most of the extra pressure but there may be other factors I am missing.
Also, I was thinking of applying bondo (and sanding smooth) to the polished metal axel surface that comes in contact with the outboard oil seal. I thought filling up the pitted metal would mean much better oil containment. Not sure hot hot the axel gets which could pop the bondo off. Maybe not a great idea but welding and turning is out of my budget. Thanbks KB
 
Follow the advice of the clutch people and alternate new and old. Don't use Bondo on the shaft! Clean it well(a light sandblast would be perfect) and use J-B Weld or its' equivalent to fill the pits and then polish with abrasive cloth until smooth. J-B will stand up to heat far better than Bondo. Good luck!
 
You can get a sleeve to slip over the axle that gives your seal a fresh new surface to ride on. I don't remember what they are called, but your auto parts store should be able to give you the info that you need. They are pricey but way less than spray weld and turn down.
 
Speedi-Sleeve is one brand of sleeve to repair grooves in a shaft. That is what I used on the axle of my tractor, it worked well. NAPA auto parts is where I bought mine.
Terry
 
thanks for the info all, I will look into the sleeve idea first then the J B weld idea. The sleeve must be very thin otherwise it would streach the seal too much. Now I have to figue out getting the lift arms off, there is just no room to put a wedge between them and the case without breaking metal. Thanks again all Kerry
 
you would not beleave what i have taken apart useing an air hammar, i very seldom us a hammar and punch anymore. I have taken off some very rusty lift arms with little trouble just useing a air hammar. get the heavest one you can find and keep it oiled, the muffler guns won't work very well, they are too light in weight.
 
Use a speedie sleeve but put some goo on the shaft so it does not leak between.Oil it well so there is no damage to the oil seal on installation.
 
HI Bendee'' I just googled Speedie sleve and it looks good. I think I will go that way. Just by chanch do you remember what size you ordered on that? I am guessing if you have a super major like me they should have the same size axel. Thanks Kerry
 
Hey Lonzo'' I guess my air hammer is not heavy enough as it has not budged the lift arms. I believe you on the air hammer though. I have been using a friends air gun to take off large rusted nuts on my tractor and it works great. I had lots of problems with the fender bolts as the rust was older than me, but the constant hammering on the nuts got them off. Guess I will take a trip to Harbor Frieght Tools and check out their compressors and heavy air hammers. Thanks Kerry
 

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