Fordson F Gas Tank- Leaks Loose Baffle

Frank L · Feb 25, 2010

I have been working on my Model F for 4 years now and got it running last fall. My last big project is to repair the gas tank and I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. The tank has imprinted on both ends--FORDSON--Made by--Ford Motor Company--Detroit, Mich., U.S.A. It has a small interior tank near the back end and 2 filler openings, 1 for each tank. The front baffle is loose and rattling around. Holes have rusted thru where the small interior tank nests close to the bottom of the large tank. My F has many after market parts on it, including a replacement manifold with an updraft Model A Zenith carburator. So it doesn"t appear that I will be trying to run with kerosene. Any suggestions you may have on how important it is to get the baffle in place or stabilized and how to fix the leaks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank L

Theman · Feb 26, 2010

The fuel tank on my '23 F had a lose baffle in it when I got it in 1980. It is the early model with a single opening. There are no plans to repair it.

My advice on repairing a hole would be to use a high-strength epoxy by Devcon. It can be sanded smooth, primed, and painted. If you don't trust polymers, some radiator shops will solder tanks depending on the amount of rust damage.

Mike Farmer · Feb 27, 2010

Depending on your skill and available tools I would do this.(or have it done) Cut the end out. carry out the necessary internal repairs then braze the end back in. You could as easily weld it in but!! if you have pin holes in the braze you can use solder to go over it and stop any leaks. That is far more difficult with a weld. I have actually done this so I can assure you that it works. MTF

Frank L · Feb 27, 2010

Mike, I have been thinking about cutting the end out and doing what you suggested. My concern is that the ends appear to be crimped into the end of the tank which appears to be rolled over the lip of the end piece, then soft soldered. When I cut out the front end, I'm thinking I should be about 1" away from the crimped/soldered lip so that I don't burn out the soft solder and create more leaks. Also does the baffle fit into the raise rib that goes around the tank? Thanks for your help Mike.

Frank L · Feb 27, 2010

Your thoughts about Epoxy/Devcon sound good. The major leaks are around where the interior tank fitting (1 1/4" Hex) protrudes thru (1/8") the bottom wall of the large tank. There are multiple holes in an area about 2" in dia. There is a lot of soft solder on the hex fitting. I've been filing it off to see if thatis the way it was originally installed or if it was dobbered up later to correct a leak. There was fiberglass all over this area .Because of the soft solder I'm thinking it best to stay away from it with a torch. Thanks for your suggestions. Frank L

Mike Farmer · Feb 27, 2010

I BELIEVE that the baffle position varied but dont actually know that. I guess you have to accept the fact that you are going to melt some solder. From what you say I think you already know what you are up against. I would be very careful with this one because you could well end up in a worse position than you are now. But I think you have enough info to make an 'informed' choice. Luck MTF

Anonymous-0 · Feb 28, 2010

Frank, Loose bafles are quite common and I would'nt worry about it. It's not worth all the trouble of opening the tank. If you patch with some sort of epoxy like JB weld be careful as the ethenol fuel will soften it in time. I would use lead solder. You can shield the heat with wet rags etc. Depends on your skill. I would guess that your tractor has a Fordson manifold turned upside down to accomadate the Zenith carb. This was done on quite a few tractors.

Aussie Frank · Mar 15, 2010

Hi Frank,

I have used a product called POR15 to seal gas tanks with great results. It is not the cheapest product but if you follow the instructions to the letter and clean and dry the tank properly you will get a great result. My tank was so bad that birds were nesting in it. I had to cut out the whole botom from front to back and weld a new piece in. Even after all that there were pin holes everywhere. So long as your tank is not that structurally weak that flexing will cause the metal to break the sealer should work. Give the rust remover plenty of time to work and then make sure that the tank is dry before putting in the sealer. Don't try to rush the job and all will be well. I spent two weeks to make sure my tank was clean and dry and I am very happy with the result.

Regards, Frank.

P.S. It might even stop the baffle from moving.

Fordson F Gas Tank- Leaks Loose Baffle

Frank L

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