I inherited a tractor with a property I bought and have been going Over what it needs to keep going. Among them was a $250 battery, the old owner said that the alternator is not wired to charge the battery, and had a car battery in it on a charger. I put the 75 amp battery in and have used it occasionally for things, and am worried about killing the battery. It has a 3 wire alternator, and I looked at Where some of the wires go but not extensively since I ve been trying to find with no luck a wiring diagram for this model I am not 100% on the year, neither was he as it was his dads. The old owner cut everything to lights, no toggles for lights, no keyed ignition. It operates on a push button start, which I have to wait for the thing to catch then let it rip. Secondly the wires from the alternator run to a voltage regulator that has a harness with 3 pins coming out but nothing connected to them no idea if it s even good. It has a kill switch toggle which has saved me a couple times because the butteryfly clip that connects the throttle just loves to pop off the ball, it s now wired together even with a new butterfly clip. All that aside I really need the alternator to be charging the battery.
- Thread starter Scriven
- Start date
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
Maybe the reason you can't find manuals is that the 445 was built from 1979 - 1983 according to tractordata.
I think you just have to check things out with a voltmeter, and if they are i working order, get it wired up properly.
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
I'm not sure what you have. Any factory system with an external regulator would have 4 wires coming out of
it instead of 3. Some pics would be very handy right now.
it instead of 3. Some pics would be very handy right now.
I will take some pictures tomorrow, and post them for reference I didn t have a chance today. Also on the year this would make sense, the owner didn t seem sure about it himself when he told me. I only Said 3 wire alternator because I had single and 3 wire alternators in my mind and just remember seeing more than one when I glanced at it. I tried to trace the wires coming from the gauge but I have to back trace them through the jacket. I know for sure he has wire running from the push button to the starter. But it seems like the wires from the alternator terminate at the voltage regulator as the forward harness is gone.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
I'm not sure why so many people go to tractordata for information when they almost always have some bit of information incorrect about a particular tractor model.
According to the New Holland parts site the 445 was made from 78-85, and then the 445A was made after that and then the 445C and then the 445D:
(445) - 3 CYL UTILITY TRACTOR (1/78-5/85)
(445A) - 3 CYL TRACTOR LOADER (6/85-11/88)
(445C) - 3 CYL TRACTOR LOADER (12/88-8/92)
(445D) - 3 CYL TRACTOR LOADER (9/92-10/00)
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
Well, I can certainly see why it's not charging. The regulator, which is not correct for the alternator, is
not even hooked up. Furthermore, if there is no key switch, it wouldn't charge even if everything else was
good.
You have a bit of a mess on your hands. My recommendation would be to get a new wiring harness (front and
rear), along with the correct voltage regulator, and start over. There's no point in trying to cobble
something together with what you have when it's already been extensively modified and cobbled.
You do have the correct Motorola alternator for that model tractor, however it's doing little more than
acting as a fan belt tensioner right now.
not even hooked up. Furthermore, if there is no key switch, it wouldn't charge even if everything else was
good.
You have a bit of a mess on your hands. My recommendation would be to get a new wiring harness (front and
rear), along with the correct voltage regulator, and start over. There's no point in trying to cobble
something together with what you have when it's already been extensively modified and cobbled.
You do have the correct Motorola alternator for that model tractor, however it's doing little more than
acting as a fan belt tensioner right now.
Well that isn t surprising but really sucks, I don t think the key switches are very expensive. But the only local place available for the forward harness was $500 and they told me to rewire it myself. I dont know where to start on the voltage regulator. I am honestly new to all this, I didn t know anything about these machines until I hopped on this thing and started figuring it out. Seems like the magic number for parts is $500 though, I ve worked on a lot of cars but no big machines.
First, determine model and year. Many threads on this. Look for a foil label under the hood, and for three numbers stamped on the flat metal surface above and behind the starter. Report those and the experts can provide your correct model and manufacturer date.
As noted below, finding replacement wire harnesses would be the fastest way to fix this tractor. With correct model number, buy a Ford repair manual, reproductions are available. My repair manual for my 445C has fully detailed wiring diagrams. With a LOT of time and patience, a person could rewire this unit from scratch.
Alternative, or until you get it repaired, make sure remaining wiring is operationally safe and fire safe and charge the battery with a charger. Once started, this tractor will run for hours on a fully charged battery.
As noted below, finding replacement wire harnesses would be the fastest way to fix this tractor. With correct model number, buy a Ford repair manual, reproductions are available. My repair manual for my 445C has fully detailed wiring diagrams. With a LOT of time and patience, a person could rewire this unit from scratch.
Alternative, or until you get it repaired, make sure remaining wiring is operationally safe and fire safe and charge the battery with a charger. Once started, this tractor will run for hours on a fully charged battery.
Check Break
Member
Start looking around. This site claims to have a front wiring harness for @ $80.00. https://www.crosscreektractor.com/p...YSTEM/FORD@@2fNEW HOLLAND WIRING HARNESS.aspx
YT shows a voltage regulator. Find the correct key switch. You'll need a parts manual or the online Ford parts diagrams like those at messicks.com. You'll be up and running for way less than $500.
Ok I will scan forums I didn t see any stamps in the metal near starter only the painted 445 on the arm for the bucket. The foil plate under the hood is there and I can read the digits but it s been partially painted over. I was reading that the 5 digit code is the production year day month time, but there are Multiple 5 digit codes and the labels for them are illegible.
C696985
KD411F
3BI0B
2M8A
2M06G
3A13B
2L30B
3A1??(partially destroyed)
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Thanks I appreciate it that will get me going, I will go online and start with the manual and go from there. One question I have if I do get a new keyed ignition if it goes about starting the same way as the push button. Currently I was told to not burn up the starter to push the button until the starter catches, then push and hold to crank it over. Will the key operate similarly where I give it a quick turn to catch, then a turn and hold to crank over once it does?
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
KD411F - 445A with diesel engine, no PTO and a 4x4 torque converter auto reversing transmission. I have another reference that says that the 445A was made from 1984-1988, but the Unit Number, 3B10B says that yours was actually made on February 10 1983, which appears to be a little early for a 445A, but the serial number, C696985 is an early 1983 serial number as well, so it looks like it is an early 1983 445A and the reference materials are off a bit.
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