861 Ford hydraulic tube bypass directions

rivetset

New User
I posted this problem where the Hydraulic fluid transfers to the transmission causing it to overfill. That was over a year ago.
I have attempted to remove the tube with zero success, and finally purchased a steel tube that was a great fit for the inside of the pressure tube. I cleaned and brushed the inside of the tube and epoxied the new tube in, and after allowing plenty of time to allow drying, refilled the hydraulics and took it out to try. After roughly 2 hours the brush mower dropped to the ground and would not lift at all. I checked hydraulic fluid and reservoir was empty again. After putting some fluid in it began to raise and I took it back to the shop and drained the transmission down to the full level which was obviously my hydraulic fluid. Now I am looking for info to bypass the hydraulic system so the tubes are not in the equation. Anyone know how to accomplish that, Or is there something else I missed? HELP please!
 
I would start over.
Pull both tubes back out and install the
correct one.
I have never done it but know the correct
part is available and many guys have done
it so it CAN be done correctly.
 
The earlier Fords had the tubes outside so its probably do-able. The new tubes are available now but I dont know how good they are. There are old posts on here about pulling the old ones out. I think it can be done without splitting the tractor, might be your best bet. Has anyone out there done this job with the new tubes?
 
I think you can temporarily tap into the port on the right side of the center housing near the foot rest for pressure and you can return it by tapping a port into your fill cap.
 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the help. I too, have seen external lines on the Jubilee, and feel confident it may not that difficult. I will tell you that removing the tubes are not as easy as one might think. I threaded the pressure tube and welded a hefty chain link to a bolt head, screwed it in and hooked a porta power to the chain link and to the front axle of the tractor and I pulled on the tube until the chain broke and that tube had not moved on bit. Same with the other one. So, rather than to assume that there is only one "correct" way to do this because someone has done it before, I intend to make it work without disassembling the transmission. Any information that takes this direction would be helpful. I am studying the manual to determine the flow and feel if I can find a hydraulic return from the housing, I will either add an external control valve or be able to use the original one. Either way I will rebuild the cylinder and get this thing going again. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
I forgot when you tap into that pressure port it will still send oil down the tube. If you look at the parts on the outer line system there is a cast block that bolts to the bottom of the rear axle housing where the flow goes up to the hydraulic system. I would study both systems for a while. If you try pulling the tubes it might be good to heat the underbelly with a radiant heater and pour icewater into the tube to shrink it a little. Someone might even have tried pulling the inspection cover off and working it through there. There are old posts here on the subject, they say it only has to move about an inch or so before it lets go. Too bad someone doesnt make them out of stainless.
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:15 09/16/18)
Thanks for the info. I appreciate the help. I too, have seen external lines on the Jubilee, and feel confident it may not that difficult. I will tell you that removing the tubes are not as easy as one might think. I threaded the pressure tube and welded a hefty chain link to a bolt head, screwed it in and hooked a porta power to the chain link and to the front axle of the tractor and I pulled on the tube until the chain broke and that tube had not moved on bit. Same with the other one. So, rather than to assume that there is only one "correct" way to do this because someone has done it before, I intend to make it work without disassembling the transmission. Any information that takes this direction would be helpful. I am studying the manual to determine the flow and feel if I can find a hydraulic return from the housing, I will either add an external control valve or be able to use the original one. Either way I will rebuild the cylinder and get this thing going again. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Not exactly what you are asking...but, there is always a way.
I have a 841-S that has worn a one-arm loader since new.
Front crank driven hydraulic pump. No factory hydraulic pump at all. The accessory cover under the seat has been modified with a fitting, hose, and quick connect. Touch control is about 3/4 up.
When I need the rear lift, I plug the hose into one of the loader valves outlets, and the loader valve raises or lowers the 3-point.
Tractor has an external hydraulic oil tank, hydraulic chamber on the tractor was empty.
Seems you could do the same, using the tractor reservoir, external lines to your pump, and an aftermarket valve mounted someplace (a TOH pump setup would make it easy)
JMOR could probably help you out on the accessory plate modification.
 
No offense intended but you have made an
easy job difficult. Thread the tube. Screw
in a piece of all thread(I use NF). Slip a
pipe union (nipple) over the allthread for
the pipe to go through. Put a couple heavy
flat washers on. Put a nut on and tighten.
It will get very tight and then pop
forward. There's only about an inch holding
and each turn will get easier.

I use the same method on tapered bearing
axle's at work. You couldn't pull them any
other way.

The tube you glued in will make it more
difficult.
 

Sounds like if I go back original, I will be splitting it. I have had this tractor for about 30 years and hate to give up on it now. I don't need it, but I intend to make it work one way or the other.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know what I find.
 
I bought tubing from McMasters and turned it down on my mini lath. Two days to turn (cause tubing expands when it gets too warm) & having to do it in stages because of the length. Last I heard Walt's has the proper tube's now. Installation was a two to three hours including draining and refilling.
 
I would try to tap the tubes as deep as I could, you can drive a nut on the tap and it will just keep going, and try that all-thread trick first, but a rearend splits not too hard.
 

I hope to be able to see the leak once the tube is out.
Is it possible for hydraulic fluid to enter the rear differential also? The tubes wouldn't cause that would it? I'm asking this because the right rear brake hub now has oil dripping from it. I pulled the level plug and drained about a quart of it. I am sure this was not overfilled when I last changed it. What is going on?
 

I intend to try to pull the tubes following your suggestions. The all thread will have to be a better grade than the hardware store carries. I'll go to The Rule Company in Tulsa. I should have thought of that first. I'll let you know how that goes.
 
I havent heard anyone recommend where to buy the tubes. Let us know how it went. I think he said to use fine thread.
 

Thanks for the info. I will let you know what happens. I will be on it this weekend. I am going today to find that all thread. Thanks for reminding me it is the fine thread,
 

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