69 Ford 4000 Engine Identification

Hello All.

New to the board, just acquired a Ford 4000 with a bucket loader attachment. She's in fair shape, been rode hard and put away wet. Engine is seized and I'm looking to tear into it soon. Before I do I'd like to know which it is (175 or 201) so I can anticipate the parts I will need for an in chassis overhaul.


Here is what I know so far based on the numbers on the bell housing.

Model D - 4000
Chassis - AG/All Purpose
Fuel - Diesel
PTO - 540
Trans - 8 Spd
Year - 1969
Mo - April
Day - 15
Shift - B/2nd (Day)
Origin - USA
Serial - 234329

Engine Casting:
C7NN - 6015 (J or T) Hard to make out.

Indicates the engine was cast in 1967 for a tractor basic 6015 cast J would be 10th update to the cast T would be 20th.

This is as far as I have gotten so far. I've read the best way to determine what I need is to measure the bore, but there has to be atleast a way to determine what engine it actually is first.

Is there anyone out there that can give me a hand?

Any help is appreciated..

Decided to call her Florence considering the timing and current storm on the horizon lol...

They are a parent bore engine so you are going to have to measure your bore because there is no way to tell from outside whether it is standard, +.020, etc.

They didn't use the 175 engine in a 4000.
All diesels where 201's but it was upgraded in mid 68 with a different head, cam, ect, giving it more hp.
The gas engines where 192's until mid 68, later model gas engines were 201's.

Your April 69 model will have the upgraded 52 hp 201 engine

Copying Post from accidentally duplicated thread to keep all information in one spot.

(quoted from post at 12:16:40 09/09/18) All 3 cylinder diesel 4000 engines were 201 ci (4.4x4.4 bore x stroke). The gassers were 192 ci (4.4x4.2) from 1/1/65-3/31/68, and were 201ci from 4/1/68 onwards.

The 175ci diesels were only used on the 3000 series and the the later 3600 and 2610 series.

To be sure, in case the engine was ever replaced, look down below the raised C7NN6015 number, below that number and just above the oil pan there is a flat rail. There is a taller section on that flat rail that is taller than the flat sections fore and aft of it. The engine serial number should be stamped into that taller section of the rail. It is a stamped number not a raised one and the characters will be much smaller than on the C7NN casting number. If the engine serial number starts with L (prior to 4/1/68) or a D (4/1/68 & onward) then it is a 4000 series engine and it is a 201 ci engine if it is a diesel.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I was certain I would I have to do this anyway, it looks like Destroked and Sean in PA have confirmed my suspicions though..

Thank you for the response.

I had a suspicion that this was the case, I thought 175 was only used in the Ford 3000. I've copied Sean's response in here from the duplicated thread and his information also confirms it. I will check the stamped number he referenced and add it here for prosperity.

I was finally able to get a chance to grab the stamped number on the block.

D084114*

Is what it looks like, the last digit is hard to make out.

So, based on the info from Sean's post and everyone elses input I can be certain the engine is the 201ci.

From the looks of her she's never had a rebuild, cant be sure till I open it up and measure the bore.

First I'd like to get the oil pan down, but those two bolts that you cant get to without separating the front alittle are stopping that.

Was considering taking a cutting wheel to the heads of those damned things. Then putting threaded rod in there and using a nut to hold the pan on. Anyone tried this before?

Thanks again for all the info, its appreciated..

Well, almost a year later and finally got the time to start wrenching on this old smoke maker.

The oil pan is down and sure enough it's as suspected. She spun a rod bearing. Could have been a disaster, but does not appear too bad. Bottom of the connecting rod came off and locked her up. Surprisingly there is very little scoring. The pistons move smooth and crank has no main bearing play.

Looks like a new connecting rod and bearing is needed, I'll do rod bearings for the other two and with any luck should be back in working condition.

Once again, thanks to everyone here and all the information provided.

Any additional advice is appreciated.

Steve

(quoted from post at 16:35:51 07/14/19) If the rod bearing actually spun and locked it up, the crank's rod journal can't be looking too pretty. At a
minimum it'll need to be turned, and more likely need to be replaced.

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Bern,

That would be ideal, but I'm not dealing with ideal circumstances right now. The rod journal probly isn't in great shape, but doesn't look too awful bad. For now it will have to do with a good backyard sand and polish. This tractor has seen some neglect for sure, plenty of evidence of that. Whatever I do to it now will be a spa treatment compared to what its been through.

I'll use PTFE with the assembly lube then run full synthetic oil with PTFE and E.O.S (ZDP) to keep it properly lubed during operation.. I'm only looking to get some extra hours out of it before I get it somewhere to work on it properly.

Thanks

So I have a T & C shop manual on the way for the specs on the engine.

I'm going to clean, sand, and polish that rod bearing journal. I was thinking if there was enough wear that the tolerance is going to make too much slack I could get an undersized rod bearing for that one rod.

Has anyone had experience with this and would like to share?

I'm thinking as long as the plastigauge indicates the crush is within tolerance there will be room for oil lubrication and there won't be as much knock.

Like I mentioned, this is just temporary until a better job can be performed. Right now she's not useable I need to get her moving on her own power and a few small jobs done before then.

From looks of the sludge in the oil pan the oil was probably never changed, I'll be putting in a new oil pump as well.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Engine Casting:
C7NN - 6015 (J or T) Hard to make out.

Indicates the engine was cast in 1967 for a tractor basic 6015 cast J would be 10th update to the cast T would be 20th.

Click to expand...

A 1965-1975 4000 diesel engine was always a 201 ci (4.4" bore x 4.4" stroke) engine.

The C7 at the beginning of the casting number indicates that the casting was designed in 1967, not that the particular bock was cast in that year. There should be another date code farther down on the right side of the block near the front that would give the actual date that the particular block was cast.

The first N means that it was designed for the tractor division.

The second N means it was designed by the tractor division.

6015 just means engine block.

The J would mean the 9th (They skipped the letter I, I believe) engine block designed for the tractor division by the tractor division in that year, not the 9th (or 10th) update to the design for that particular 201 ci engine block. I may be wrong but I don't think that they ever made 9 or 10 updates to the casting design for a particular engine block in the same year.