"1970" Ford 5000 power steering

Still playing with other repairs while I await the starter motor arrival...

I bought this tractor in 2001. It had power steering. It blew - lost the fluid. Being even dumber than I am now - and broke - I didn't fix it. Now I want to fix it since I am now a genius and rich :roll:

Doing research on the replacement parts, something seems odd and am wondering if anyone has any input on the history, whether this is original or was added later. The date on the pump tag seems to indicate the latter.

The Tag was thankfully covered by a painted over piece of tape:

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The Pump
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As far as the repair, hopefully it isn't completely destroyed after years of non-use.

As always, thanks for any input.

Randall
 

Been busy with the pump side, but glad to report it seems to be working okay. One of the copper lines to the pump had broken at the flare inside the fastener so it wasn't visible. I fixed that while the pump was off. The pump itself looked okay from what little I know. Put it back on and filled it with fluid.

When I started it up the pump was working as you could see the fluid surging through the filter, but fluid started leaking from the cylinder under the radiator. As I now remember, that's what prompted me to not fix it before -- too much money and not enough brains.

So that's next on the to do list before the snow flies.

Randall
 
I re-sealed one of these steering systems earlier this year. The cost was less than $20 for all the seals from my local hydraulic shop. In
fact, we updated the cylinder rod seal to a one-piece version ("poly pack" I believe it was called) as opposed to the original two-piece
style. System now steers great, and does not leak so much as a drop. In fact, properly adjusted, this system is about the best PS system that
Ford has ever put in a tractor, IMHO.

Attached pic shows me dialing in the control valve adjustment.
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WOW!
It's ummm...clean.
Was that pic taken with the radiator removed?
And is that what's ahead of me when I go to fix it? Any other "fun" things I need to watch out for? I'll need to hit with Gunk and a good pressure wash to get it close to being as clean as the one in your pic.

Radiator removal doesn't bother me so much as removing all the stuff around it. The radiator needs come out anyway as the center portion is clogged with thistle and cottonwood fuzz.

Thanks for letting me know about seal replacement. I'll check with our local Ford New Holland Dealer here in Richmond, MI.
 

Rebuilt the steering on my 66 5000 a couple of years ago, the tapered pin that holds the cylinder was worn allowing to much play to shift the valve, we welded the pin up and ground it to size, resealed the cylinder and tightened up a few other things, steering works great, turns easier than my tractors with hydrostatic steering.
Blew the pressure line under the radiator back during first cut haying, pulled it apart a few weeks ago and had a new hose made with compression ends to replace the bad hose.
 
(quoted from post at 00:48:06 09/02/18) Yes, radiator was removed, which is what you'll have to do before you can take the cylinder out.

A little more digging and a few more questions:

(Apologies for the long post)

When I refilled the pump reservoir and with the tractor running, shouldn't I have felt at least some power assist even though the cylinder was leaking?

The seal kit ordered thru the local New Holland Dealer is $102 - probably cheaper elsewhere for sure - even if it doesn't fix the issue, the cylinder I am sure needs an overhaul regardless.

The mech at New Holland suggested getting the front wheels off the ground, refilling the reservoir with fluid, going lock-to-lock on the steering a few times to get the air out and then pressure testing the pump. I'm good with everything except the pressure test - never done it and don't have a gauge kit. Is there another way to test the pressure without a gauge?

Thanks for any input.

Randall
 
When I refilled the pump reservoir and with the tractor running, shouldn't I have felt at least some power assist even though the cylinder was leaking?

Only if the control valve linkage is somewhere near correct in adjustment and not too worn to actually engage the control valve. The control valve is in the end of the cylinder housing and the linkage is supposed to detect when you move the steering wheel in one direction and react by opening the control valve in that direction, but if the linkage is worn and sloppy, it will probably not actuate the valve. Also, if it is not adjusted properly it won't activate the valve, at least not when it is supposed to.
 
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The lines from the pump

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The lines going into the nose under the radiator

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The lines into the cylinder

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The cylinder itself

Please lemme know if I'm posting needless images, but I wanted to show you these to get an idea from you if this is typical of this kind of set-up. I know it's pretty filthy, but I'll clean that up tomorrow before i pull the cylinder.
Thanks for your input.
Randall
 

Finally got the cylinder removed. Fairly easy until I got to the Actuator arm.
:shock:

mvphoto23624.jpg


Now the fun begins. A little nervous as I've never done this before.

Randall
 
Got the cylinder apart and all seals replaced and back together. Put the radiator back on to test it and found that one of the lines from the pump to the cylinder was leaking ---- pppffffttt.

The good news is that I didn't see any other leaks. obviously will know more after everything is solid to see if there are any other weak points.

So the hose is on order and will update after the next installment - hopefully on Monday.

Randall
 

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